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Exploring Cheese Craftsmanship: From Large Producers to Small Artisan Farms

Cheese master Jean-Charles Michaud employs a traditional technique using a sonde, which is a specialized tool made from a cowhorn hammer with a corer, to assess the quality of cheese wheels. As he taps a wheel, he listens intently; a hollow sound indicates a potential flaw, likely a hole, which disqualifies it from being classified as top quality. Michaud also tastes the cheese, ensuring that only the finest wheels make the cut for sale. His employer, Mifroma, is notable for its production volume, ripening nearly 10,000 tons of Gruyère annually. The bustling environment is further punctuated by a worker navigating past in rappelling gear.

In stark contrast to Mifroma’s expansive operations, some affineurs operate on a much smaller scale. Take, for example, Martial Rod, a multifaceted farmer, cheesemaker, and affineur who runs La Moësettaz, a quaint alpage situated in Le Brassus. While his family-run establishment is a far cry from industrial cheese production, it embodies the rich tradition of Swiss cheesemaking. The 57 traditional alpages, including Rod’s, account for less than 2 percent of AOP cheese production, but the craftsmanship involved is remarkable. At his Alpine chalet, adorned with commemorative cowbells, Rod is surrounded by a warm, rustic atmosphere as he stirs a vat of curds and whey heated by an open fire, providing a stark contrast to the frigid temperatures outside. Despite the heat from the fire, Rod’s work attire remains minimalist, reflecting his physical conditioning from handling 77-pound cheese wheels.

“I inherited this from my father, a cheesemaker,” Rod shares, reflecting on his deep-rooted connection to the craft. “I have a profound bond with my animals and a respect for nature that’s integral to my work.” Each of his 50 cows has a name, highlighting the personalized approach Rod takes in managing the entire cheese-making process. For him, the alpage isn’t just about producing cheese; it symbolizes freedom and a way of life closely tied to nature.

Amidst the fog and rainfall in the lush surroundings, Rod’s cows enjoy a peaceful existence, their milk eventually destined to be transformed into delightful dishes like moitié-moitié. This specific fondue combines the robust flavor of Gruyère with the milder taste of Vacherin, often served in rustic Swiss Alpine restaurants, such as Chez Boudji in the town of Broc, known for its fondue specialties.

As the cows leisurely chew their cud, the anticipation builds for an upcoming tradition. Within a month, Rod will dress them in floral crowns and join fellow farmers for the désalpe, a ceremonial event where herds are paraded from the higher alpine pastures back down to the warmer plains for the winter months. Meanwhile, chalets on Moléson and throughout the region are preparing their fondue pots to welcome the après-ski crowds, eager to indulge in this cherished Swiss culinary tradition.

Source
www.bonappetit.com