Photo credit: www.vogue.com
“I had no idea they were producing such impressive work there!” That was the opening remark in my Instagram inbox while I was covering Shanghai Fashion Week. Often overshadowed by the Paris fashion events, Shanghai’s shows generally receive less social media exposure, which contributes to a lack of recognition for their unique offerings.
However, the tide seems to be turning—not just in my social media notifications. This was my fourth visit to Shanghai, and the presence of Western journalists was notably higher than ever before. With brands like Mark Gong and Shushu/Tong gaining traction (thanks in part to celebrities such as Jennie, Sydney Sweeney, and Olivia Rodrigo), the international profile of Shanghai Fashion Week is undoubtedly rising. Despite this progress, the local fashion market has faced volatility, impacting the event’s vibrancy. There were fewer shows this season, and attendance at events was noticeably lower.
On a positive note, the resilience of Shanghai’s creative community is commendable. Many designers are adapting by focusing on commercial viability, while others are pushing their imaginative limits further than before. International brands also made a significant impact this season with exhibitions from Loro Piana, Gucci, and Dolce & Gabbana, alongside the launch of Prada’s first standalone dining establishment in Asia located in downtown Shanghai. Here are some highlights you may have missed from the week.
Highlights from the Collections
A Stunning “Y3K” Presentation
WeiRan completed her education at Parsons in 2022 and quickly launched her label, Weiraen, in Shanghai. Her second runway show attracted considerable attention, showcasing avant-garde couture pieces that reflect her ambitious vision. Rather than focusing on commercial designs, she is cultivating her creative talents, aiming to establish a sustainable made-to-order model. Drawing inspiration from Hieronymus Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights, WeiRan emphasized a thematic focus in her collection for the first time, which proved to be effective.
Emerging Designers to Follow
The fashion incubator and retail space Labelhood hosted a Lab showroom running in conjunction with the fashion week schedule, presenting the newest talents. Among the standout designers were Joyce Bao, who featured a whimsical second collection of beautifully draped laces, and GG in Red, a graduate from Central Saint Martins, who presented impressive menswear using boiled wool and raw silk, infused with historical motifs.
Bohemian Flair Hits Shanghai
Ili Node and Xu Zhi introduced a bohemian aesthetic to the Chinese market. Node’s ethereal layers either enveloped or unraveled around the body, while Zhi drew on a 1970s interpretation of boho, offering a lively and flirtatious collection free from excessive embellishments.
Sustainability in Fashion
Karmuel Young, a Hong Kong-based designer recognized as a finalist for the SustAsia sustainable fashion prize, showcased an innovative take on traditional workwear. His adaptable jumpsuit can transform into pants, a jacket, or a long overcoat—demonstrating that modular fashion can be both practical and chic.
Embracing Commercial Appeal
Short Sentence celebrated a decade in the industry with an impressively styled collection that provided ample wardrobe inspiration through vibrant knits, clever layering, and playful interpretations of classic pieces. The brand’s designer, Lin Guan, a former Calvin Klein menswear alumnus, places a priority on comfort and enjoyment in fashion.
Lu Yan, a well-known Chinese model, launched her label Comme Moi over ten years ago and has built it into a prominent name on the Shanghai Fashion Week schedule. She has orchestrated stunning runway shows and collections that reflect her own stylish persona, earning her a dedicated following across China.
Source
www.vogue.com