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Remembering Alison Hargreaves: A Pioneering Mountaineer

Today marks what would have been the 63rd birthday of Alison Hargreaves, a British mountaineer whose extraordinary life was devoted to climbing. Tragically, her journey was cut short during the infamous 1995 K2 tragedy.

Born on February 17, 1962, in Derbyshire, England, Hargreaves was raised in a family passionate about hiking. From a young age, she displayed a natural affinity for climbing; she tackled Ben Nevis at just nine years old and began rock climbing by the age of 13.

At 18, she left her family home to live with her boyfriend, Jim Ballard, whom she later married. Both shared a love for climbing, and Ballard’s career in selling mountaineering gear complemented their passion. Together, they welcomed two children, Tom in 1988 and Kate in 1991.

By the time Hargreaves applied for membership with the Alpine Club in 1984, she had already accumulated considerable experience in the Alps.

A New Route on Kangtega

In the spring of 1986, she joined the Kangtega-Nuptse Expedition, a coalition of U.S. and UK climbers led by Jeff Lowe.

Kangtega, standing at 6,783 meters in the Khumbu region of Nepal, was first summited in 1963 by an international team led by Edmund Hillary. Leading up to Hargreaves’s ascent, multiple expeditions had successfully reached its peak, including a Japanese team’s climb via the north face in 1979 and a South Korean team’s attempt in 1985.

Lowe’s team broke new ground with a route on the northwest face of Kangtega. On May 1, Hargreaves and Mark Twight reached the summit, marking Hargreaves as the first British woman to do so. Her remarkable feat exemplified her prowess as a climber.

Later in 1987, she sought to conquer Ama Dablam, reaching an impressive altitude of 5,700 meters.

The Eiger: A Climb During Pregnancy

Hargreaves continued to accomplish impressive feats throughout her climbing career. In 1988, while six months pregnant with her first child, she ascended the North Face of the Eiger, which prompted significant public debate about her actions.

“I was pregnant, not sick,” she famously asserted in response to critics.

Recognizing her determination, the couple relocated to Switzerland to better pursue their climbing ambitions.

Solo Ascents of the Alps

In 1993, Hargreaves made history by becoming the first climber to solo the six classic North Faces of the Alps in a single season. These included iconic mountains like the Matterhorn and the Eiger.

She also achieved several notable first female solo ascents, including the Croz Spur on the Grandes Jorasses. Hargreaves’s accomplishments culminated in the publication of her climbing memoir, A Hard Day’s Summer, in 1994.

Conquest of Everest

In late 1994, Hargreaves participated in the British Everest Medical Expedition, summiting along with several members via the South Col-Southeast Ridge route. However, when her feet began to numb at high altitudes, she made the difficult decision to turn back.

Her aspirations only grew from there; she aimed to climb Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga in one year, all without the use of supplemental oxygen.

In spring 1995, she undertook the ascent of Everest alone, seeking to climb the North Col-Northeast Ridge route autonomously. Hargreaves not only summited on May 13, but she also became the first woman to do so unsupported and without supplemental oxygen. In a heartfelt radio transmission to her children, she expressed her love as she stood atop the world.

The K2 Tragedy

Just months later, in August 1995, Hargreaves arrived in Pakistan to pursue her goal of climbing K2 under similar conditions. She informed fellow climbers that afterward, she planned to return to Scotland to spend quality time with her children.

After summiting on August 13, the group faced a severe windstorm while descending. Sadly, Hargreaves was likely blown from the mountain, and she lost her life at the age of 33, alongside six other climbers caught in the disastrous conditions that day.

Legacy of Tom Ballard

Alison Hargreaves left behind a legacy not only as one of the most pioneering women in mountaineering but also as a mother of a gifted climber, Tom Ballard. Following in her footsteps, Tom accomplished the remarkable feat of soloing the six great North Faces of the Alps during the winter of 2014-2015.

Tragically, he passed away on Nanga Parbat on February 24, 2019, further underscoring the complex and often perilous relationship between climbing and its enthusiasts.

Alison Hargreaves’s story remains an essential chapter in mountaineering history, casting light on both her exceptional achievements and the dangers inherent in the pursuit of climbing’s greatest heights.

Source
explorersweb.com