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In Mexico City, Panadería Rosetta is renowned not only for its exquisite rol de guayaba but also for its special pan de muerto, or bread of the dead, which takes center stage each October in preparation for Día de Muertos. This vibrant celebration occurs annually on November 1 and 2, where families honor their deceased loved ones through gatherings filled with food, beverages, and the beloved pan de muerto.
Elena Reygadas, the chef and owner of Panadería Rosetta, comments, “It’s an essential part of our culture, one of the most important and beloved breads. And, it’s personally my favorite.”
Pan de muerto serves as a vital offering on the altars that commemorate the deceased. While family members partake in eating the bread, it is believed that the spirits are nourished by the essence of the pan and other offerings left for them during the holiday. This bread usually features a subtly sweet flavor, enhanced with orange zest and often topped with sugar, which can be white or red, or adorned with sesame seeds and sprinkles. Its most memorable aspect is the addition of dough shaped like bones on top, which symbolizes the perpetual cycle of life and death. The bread boasts a soft, airy interior encased in a golden brown crust and is traditionally consumed alongside coffee, atole, or hot chocolate during the festivities.
Since opening in 2012, Panadería Rosetta has been producing pan de muerto, selling between 160 and 500 loaves per day during the season spanning from October 1 to November 3. The bakery’s unique use of orange blossom water in its recipe contributes to the bread’s signature aroma and flavor. “The essence of orange blossom is marked in our collective memory as part of our traditions here at Panadería Rosetta,” affirms Reygadas, who credits her mother for instilling in her a deep appreciation for Mexican traditions. The bakery also utilizes a sourdough starter, lending the bread a particularly fluffy and airy texture. Consequently, pan de muerto often sells out daily, and during the Día de Muertos period, the lines extend substantially: “The beauty of bread lies in its freshness and its brevity,” Reygadas explains. “We produce every day and bake only for the day.”
From the bakery’s inception, Reygadas has always included traditional sugar-coated pan de muerto. However, in 2019 she unveiled a new variation: bread of the dead combined with totomoxtle, or corn ash, an initiative aimed at repurposing discarded corn husks from her other culinary endeavors. This innovative approach has led to the creation of an intriguing all-black pan de muerto. Reygadas emphasizes that the color is about more than decoration; it embodies historical significance. “This reinterpretation adds a layer of metaphorical meaning, connecting the use of ash to pre-Hispanic culture and Catholic rituals while we take advantage of corn husks that would otherwise be discarded,” she elaborates. “It’s a clear example of how heritage and symbolism come together in a single bread.”
Elena Reygadas initially garnered acclaim with her restaurant, Rosetta, later establishing the bakery due to growing demand from community members and fellow chefs. She subsequently expanded the menu at Panadería Rosetta to include traditional breads while also resurrecting lesser-known Mexican recipes, like pulque bread and cemita. This year, she is set to introduce new recipes for pan de muerto made with amaranth, alongside those incorporating quelites, as an homage to native ingredients that are dear to her heart. “We like to honor and keep our Mexican traditions alive with gestures like this,” Reygadas concludes.
Kisai Ponce is the director of audience development at Thrillist.
Leandro Motta is a photographer based in Mexico City.
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www.eater.com