Photo credit: www.foodandwine.com
The iconic Mint Julep served at the Kentucky Derby is crafted from a mere four ingredients. While the local Kentucky mint is essential and crushed ice gives it texture, it’s the Woodford Reserve bourbon that serves as the backbone of this celebrated cocktail.
During Derby week, a staggering 120,000 Mint Juleps are typically served. Executive Chef Robbie Walters of Levy, the culinary team behind the Kentucky Derby, pointedly notes, “that’s a lot of mint.” This also translates to a significant quantity of bourbon.
Each year, Churchill Downs sources around 50,000 liters of bourbon from Woodford Reserve. This famed distillery, located about 60 miles east of the racetrack in Versailles, Kentucky, has been the exclusive bourbon supplier for the Derby since 1999. Established in 1812 by the Pepper family, the site was selected for its natural limestone, essential for enhancing yeast growth and filtering out impurities in the final product. In 1993, Brown-Forman revitalized the historic distillery nestled among horse farms, and Woodford Reserve whiskey became a flagship name for the brand.
How the bourbon is made
To meet the legal definition of bourbon, the spirit must comprise at least 51% corn and be aged in new oak barrels. Master Distiller Elizabeth McCall describes Woodford Reserve’s recipe, which includes 72% corn, 18% rye, and 10% malted barley, combined with filtered water.
This mash is fermented using a proprietary yeast strain within eight 7,500-gallon barrels over a span of seven days, producing fruity notes as the yeast consumes sugar and creates alcohol. At this stage, the mixture resembles a fruit-forward beer, showcasing the unique character of the Woodford yeast.
The fermentation leads to a detailed distillation process involving three distinct phases. Initially, the mixture is heated in a 2,500-gallon copper beer still for at least three hours, with temperatures ranging from 173°F to 210°F. The resulting 40-proof distillate is then moved to a stainless-steel tank before transitioning to a 1,650-gallon high wine still, designed to enhance alcohol content to approximately 125-proof while trimming off less desirable flavors. This step takes an additional three hours, after which it undergoes a final distillation in a low wine still to ensure only the best flavors are retained.
Once distillation is complete, the bourbon is placed in new 53-gallon barrels. The aging process spans five to seven years in heat-cycled warehouses where temperatures are meticulously monitored. To foster optimal maturation, the distillery relies on natural summer heat and mitigates winter conditions through technical controls, ensuring the barrels reach the required temperatures periodically.
During aging, evaporation occurs, resulting in what’s known as the “angel’s share,” allowing for oxidation that heightens the fruit esters and raises the alcohol proof. The oak barrels themselves greatly influence the flavor profile, as each 32-piece barrel, comprised of multiple oak species, is crafted to ensure consistency across batches. Each barrel undergoes specific preparation steps, including toasting and charring, to infuse the whiskey with its distinctive character.
Master Distiller McCall emphasizes the importance of tasting samples throughout the aging process to ascertain the ideal maturation time, although regulations prevent full barrels from leaving the distillery. All bourbon is bottled onsite in the signature Woodford Reserve shape, with Derby editions donning special labels each year.
How the mint is harvested
As the truck arrives at Churchill Downs carrying over 28,000 bunches of spearmint from Nelson Family Agriculture, located just under an hour from Louisville in New Hope, Kentucky, it brings the unmistakable essence of the Derby.
Nick Nelson, who grew up working on this farm that has supplied mint for the Derby since 1980, fully acquired the operation in 2020, carrying on the tradition. While the farm cultivates diverse produce, mint remains the highlight. The optimal time for planting mint is in the fall, with the plants for the Derby sown about a year-and-a-half before the event, promoting robust growth in the farm’s plots.
Harvesting mint is an intricate task, beginning manually up to two weeks prior to the Derby and continuing until the days leading up to the event. Nelson aims for the mint to reach heights of 12 to 16 inches before collection.
After being harvested, the mint is bundled and wrapped in newspaper—a method that pays homage to his grandmother’s practices—then soaked in water to maintain freshness en route to Louisville, ensuring it is ready for the Derby glasses.
A total of 28,730 bunches of mint make their way to Churchill Downs. “Every single bit is done by hand, from start to finish,” says Nelson, who expresses gratitude for his connection with the Derby and notes its substantial growth over the years.
Crafting a Mint Julep
According to Chris Morris, master distiller emeritus for Woodford Reserve, the authentic Mint Julep preparation involves starting with fresh mint leaves at the bottom of the glass, topping them with a spoonful of simple syrup. Muddling the two is optional, followed by filling the glass mostly with crushed ice—a crucial component for maintaining the drink’s integrity. The bourbon is then poured in, further elevating the ice level, and garnished with additional mint before topping off with more ice.
Morris emphasizes the aesthetic and aromatic importance of the garnish, stating, “Yes, it looks good, but the aromatic character is also good.” This evocative scent encapsulates the essence of the Kentucky Derby.
Source
www.foodandwine.com