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How Women Leveraged Cookbooks in the Fight for Women’s Suffrage

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The Intersection of Cooking and the Women’s Suffrage Movement

My initial introduction to the women’s suffrage movement was through Mrs. Banks, a character in the film Mary Poppins. In her memorable entrance, she dons a “Votes for Women” sash while jubilantly singing about her efforts to break free from the chains of societal oppression. However, her character is portrayed in a rather negative light: while she champions the cause, she neglects her children, who have again run away, prompting their nanny to leave out of frustration. Although Mr. Banks, who is absorbed in his work, shares some blame for the situation, his long hours provide necessary financial support for the family. The question arises: What tangible contribution does Mrs. Banks make during her absence from her maternal duties?

This film was released in 1964, well after women had already secured voting rights in both the U.K. and the U.S. Yet, Mrs. Banks reflects the Victorian-era fears against women’s suffrage that still resonate today, suggesting that if women engaged in public life, domestic responsibilities would falter. Such beliefs imply a fundamental incapacity among men and children to manage daily life independently, fostering chaotic consequences over a woman’s desire to exercise her civic rights.

The suffragists faced more than just societal prejudice; they also grappled with the pressing need for funds to support their initiatives. Fortunately, they could draw upon a proven fundraising model from the Civil War, during which women demonstrated their patriotic zeal by leveraging their culinary skills. Although many could not participate in combat or hold political positions, they were adept bakers and cooks, capable of crafting appealing goods that could be marketed without having to hand over profits to their husbands.

Thus, selling food items and publishing community cookbooks served a dual purpose for the suffragists: it provided financial aid for their campaigns and showcased their adherence to traditional domestic responsibilities. Despite being accomplished professionals, the women behind these cookbooks reaffirmed their competencies in household management. As Hattie A. Burr, editor of The Woman Suffrage Cook Book, remarked in her introduction, the book’s assembly features an impressive array of contributors, affirming its authenticity and significance.

This demonstrated that the suffrage movement was not at odds with family life, but rather was enhancing it with this invaluable gift.

(Interestingly, the emphasis on professional accomplishments outside domesticity may have prompted feelings of conflict among some contributors. This sentiment echoes through time, as contemporary politicians like Kamala Harris highlight their culinary abilities alongside their professional vigor, reminding us of the complexity of women’s roles even today.)

Between 1886 and 1920, various suffrage organizations created numerous cookbooks, although the exact number remains uncertain. Historical records preserve six complete books and two pamphlets, with The Woman Suffrage Cook Book emerging as the inaugural publication, launched in Boston in 1886 and later reprinted in 1890. These cookbooks served as exclusive items available at fundraising events designed to advance the cause of women’s rights.

The contributors generally belonged to an elite demographic, often described as possessing “the best blood of New England.” Yet, this group also included women from various backgrounds, such as those from Chicago and San Antonio. Many contributors opted to identify themselves by their professional titles, while a few chose to be identified by their husband’s name or even acknowledged their housekeepers. The popularity of certain recipes is striking, with six variations for gingerbread and numerous others for cakes.

Recipes in these cookbooks sometimes exhibit a brisk, succinct style, as seen in Mrs. Mary J. Willis’s contribution for Currant Pie, which provides minimal instruction on baking methodology. Exact temperatures for cooking are absent, reflecting a time before modern ovens with thermometers. Measurements were often vague, leaving the interpretation of quantities to the cook’s discretion.

The culinary landscape of the 19th century starkly contrasts with that of today. These recipes offer glimpses into the arduous daily lives of women, who labored fiercely in the kitchen without modern conveniences. The process of cooking was physically demanding, encompassing everything from lighting stoves to hand-kneading dough. Yet there was an element of excitement; for example, Anna Ella Carroll presents an adventurous approach to preparing terrapin, noting the challenges of processing the animal before cooking. On a practical note, Marie E. Zakrzewska, M.D., offers reassurance in moments of kitchen calamity.

Amidst the culinary guidance, individual personalities emerge, especially in the case of Dr. Alice B. Stockham from Chicago, an ardent advocate for whole-grain diets. Her passionate perspective on nutrition shines through in her admonition against using white bread for toast, highlighting her belief in the superiority of whole-grain options. Stockham, a trailblazing woman in medicine and a proponent of personal sexual philosophy, left an indelible mark on her time, showcasing the blend of activism and daily responsibilities.

Another notable figure is Matilda Joslyn Gage, who emphasizes persistence in her recipe for baked tomatoes, encouraging readers to attempt the dish repeatedly for successful results. Gage’s commitment to optimism and her multifaceted activism positions her as a prominent historical figure connected to the suffrage movement.

These cookbooks also provide expansive household advice, where differing opinions coalesce within the suffragist community. Doctors such as Vesta Miller and Mary J. Stafford express varying approaches to dietary and health concerns, suggesting everything from avoiding excessive focus on illness to advocating for a balanced yet unconventional diet.

Selecting a recipe presented its own challenges, compounded by antiquated terms and quantities suited for large families. While Mother’s Election Cake, contributed by Miss M.A. Hill, initially piqued my interest, its extensive ingredient list proved daunting.

However, in Laura Kumin’s book All Stirred Up, which revisits suffrage cookbooks, I discovered a more manageable recipe for corn cake from Dr. Vesta Miller. This adaptation was straightforward, allowing me to prepare a delightful dish infused with the spirit of the era.

As I engaged in the cooking process, I found myself immersed in reflection. The absence of distractions enabled me to ponder the contributions of women to the suffrage movement through domestic tasks. Inspired by Rebecca May Johnson’s essay, which contemplates the intersection of cooking and cognitive engagement, I considered how kitchens might have been sites of feminist thought and strategizing.

In what ways did the kitchen become a crucible for ideas that fueled the suffrage movement? How many women solidified their thoughts on social change while immersed in the rhythms of daily cooking? The Woman Suffrage Cookbook concludes with a section devoted to historical opinions on women’s rights, drawing from influential figures whose insights have shaped discourse, albeit in an often manipulated context.

Ultimately, the notion that cooking is a form of critical thinking emerged as a silent yet powerful thread in 19th-century women’s lives, allowing them to craft strategies that reached far beyond their kitchens. While male authority in society was formidable, the intellectual realm of women remained untouchable—sparking aspirations that would eventually empower them to claim their rightful place in the democratic process.

Source
www.eater.com

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