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The Enduring Legacy of Georgian Wine
The tradition of winemaking in Georgia is deeply woven into the country’s fabric. Anecdotes like those of soldiers carrying a sapling as a token of hope speak volumes about the cultural significance of wine here. This practice highlights the historical adversity Georgians faced as their homeland was a strategic prize for empires such as Russia, Persia, and the Ottoman Turks. During these eras, some rulers, staunchly opposed to alcohol, resorted to destroying the vines that had flourished for centuries.
Despite the tumultuous history, wine has remarkably endured, helping to forge a resilient national identity and pride among Georgians, who celebrate their status as the oldest wine producers in the world. Archaeological discoveries have only solidified this pride; in 2017, the unearthing of ancient wine jar fragments south of Tbilisi validated the longstanding belief that Georgia’s winemaking heritage stretches back at least 8,000 years.
An exploration of Georgian wine was highlighted recently with a tasting of a 2021 Rkatsiteli, a natural wine that presented itself in a cloudy honey hue. Initial gustatory expectations shifted upon tasting, revealing a profile rich in citrus with a nuanced structure of tannins. An intriguing aftertaste reminiscent of black tea and lemon completed the experience. Rkatsiteli is a testament to Georgia’s commitment to traditional vinification techniques, embodying the heritage and pride local winemakers hold dear.
As the afternoon progressed, a hands-on grape-crushing session using a traditional wooden machine served as a precursor to a vibrant communal dining experience. Come evening, tables laden with colorful Georgian salads—comprising tomatoes, cucumbers, walnuts, and cilantro—set the stage for an elaborate feast. The meal featured enticing cold dishes like nigvziani badrijani, which consists of eggplant strips wrapped around flavorful pomegranate and walnut paste. This convivial gathering was a celebration known as supra, whose name translates to ‘tablecloth,’ symbolizing the importance of sharing meals with guests.
Unlike casual gatherings, a supra is rich in ritual, marked by communal toasting and shared stories. Serving as tamada, the toastmaster, Burjanadze embodied the spirit of the event, seamlessly guiding the revelers through rounds of toasts that honored family, ancestors, nature, and even world peace. With each round, platters of roast pork shashlik and savory khinkali (meat dumplings) appeared, while glasses brimming with Saperavi and Rkatsiteli maintained a continuous flow. Burjanadze invited all to participate, encouraging everyone to embrace the power of toasting as a way to foster connection and joy.
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www.cntraveler.com