Indulge in the Joy of Enjoying Fats

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The flavor of fast food french fries has sparked nostalgic conversations, and this sentiment isn’t baseless. In 1992, Phil Sokolof, a heart attack survivor, divested his successful construction business to advocate against dietary fats. Through the National Heart Savers Association, which he established in the ’80s, Sokolof utilized full-page advertisements and national media appearances to alert the public about the risks associated with fats present in common foods like 2% milk, Goldfish crackers, and Hydrox cookies. However, his most vocal critiques were directed at the iconic McDonald’s french fries.

For many, including myself during my youth, McDonald’s fries represented the apex of American fast food—crispy, salty, and comfortingly fluffy on the inside. The key component to their appealing texture was beef tallow, which Sokolof condemned as a major public health threat. His campaign, which utilized provocative billboards and ads emphasizing the hazards of such fats, cost him approximately $8 million and also addressed other fats like coconut and palm oil, which are integral to diverse global cuisines.

In response to mounting pressure, McDonald’s introduced the temporarily available 91% fat-free McLean Deluxe in 1991 and gradually phased out beef tallow in favor of lower-fat oils, a shift mirrored by other fast-food chains.

Personally, Sokolof’s influence led me to consume fewer McDonald’s fries, not due to health concerns, but because they simply didn’t satisfy my palate anymore. While beef tallow may not deliver a flavor synonymous with high-quality cuts of meat, its saturated fat content contributes to a unique density that enhances mouthfeel and pleasure in food, something that my father, a chemist with expertise in fatty acids, agreed upon when he stated, “Fat tastes good.” He elaborated that while indulgence in fat has health implications, a small amount of quality fat can often be more satisfying than an excess of inferior substitutes.

Everyday Foods in Wartime, by Mary Swartz Rose (1918)

Reflecting on contemporary perceptions of food, the significance of butter has become a topic of debate. Historical narratives tell of a longing for traditional butter flavors, which often became elusive, leading to a dependence on margarine during tough economic times. My own family history is rife with tales of culinary upgrades sparked by visits from my grandmother, who heralded the return to real butter over margarine—a preference underscored by my father’s recollections from his youth.

My father described how, during wartime rationing, the scarcity of butter led to widespread reliance on margarine, prompting manufacturers to enact legislation to curb its market share following the war, reflecting the ongoing battle between these two fats that persist even in culinary discussions today.

Although I wasn’t fully aware of the historical nuances at the time, the emotional and sensory aspects of food significantly affected me. Growing up amidst societal fears surrounding fat, which had permeated the culture during the ’80s and ’90s, I was bombarded with mixed messages about health and diet that often ran counter to my innate appreciation for richer flavors.

Even in food publications informed by a stringent low-fat ethos, there were occasional nods to the importance of real fat, hinting at a collective understanding that true flavor and texture often lay beyond mere nutritional labeling.

It seems universally acknowledged, on some instinctual level, that real fats play a vital role not just in flavor, but also in emotional satisfaction.

Food Guide for War Service at Home Prepared Under the Direction of the United States Food Administration in Cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture and the Bureau of Education (1918)

International experiences, particularly during wartime, illuminate the critical role fats play in diets. Observations from European countries emphasize that the absence of fats can cause discontent and dissatisfaction even in otherwise sufficient diets, highlighting our complex relationship with fats from both physiological and psychological perspectives.

The words from the 1997 edition of The Joy of Cooking echo this sentiment, asserting that the type of fat used in cooking is a defining feature of regional cuisines. The fondness for specific fats—bacon, olive oil, and butter—triggers cherished culinary memories and influences the overall texture and flavor of dishes.

Unlike natural fats, which have deep historical roots, synthetic substitutes like margarine and Olestra arose more recently but often fail to resonate with true culinary satisfaction. Real animal fats, on the other hand, have enduring qualities that reaffirm their place at the table.

Personally, my focus remains on the joy that good fat brings to cooking and eating. Economic downturns and social upheavals often drive people back to comforting, nostalgic foods. In recent years, as society has begun to question earlier dietary dogmas, many have returned to the appeal of traditional fats like lard and tallow, recognizing their potential benefits over industrial oils.

Conversations about these fats extend to modern uses, including as skin care products, which led to a playful exchange with my father about the sources of tallow and its culinary applications versus its cosmetic trends.

Despite his skepticism about the tallow craze, my father’s nostalgia for traditional cooking played through our chats, reflecting how deeply ingrained these practices and preferences are in our family ethos.

The enduring legacy of fat, both in the kitchen and in our memories, illuminates a shared appreciation that transcends generations.

A Selection of Notable Books on Fat

Lard: The Lost Art of Cooking with Your Grandmother’s Secret Ingredient — Editors of Grit Magazine
The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat — Michael Ruhlman
Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes — Jennifer McLagan
The Fat Kitchen: How to Render, Cure & Cook with Lard, Tallow & Poultry Fat — Andrea Chesman

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