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While many chefs typically prefer to discuss their culinary visions in the comfort of their restaurants, Kwame Onwuachi takes a different approach. Recently, he opted for a lively conversation on the greens at D.C.’s East Potomac public golf course, sharing insights about his much-anticipated return to the dining landscape of Southwest Waterfront. His new venture, Dōgon, is set to open its doors on September 9.
At Dōgon, which is pronounced “Doh-gon,” Onwuachi pays tribute to Benjamin Banneker, the renowned D.C. land surveyor with ancestral connections to the Dōgon tribe. His menu showcases a mix of influences derived from his Nigerian, Jamaican, Trinidadian, and Creole heritage, all through a “West African lens.”
“Sharing is central to what we do here,” Onwuachi explains, highlighting the cultural fusion inspiration drawn from various cuisines, including Ethiopian and Korean.
Although Dōgon will mainly be closed on Mondays, the opening date holds significance, marking the anniversary of D.C. being named in 1791. The restaurant features a striking 200-seat dining area adorned with gold chain curtains, symbolizing the tools used by Banneker in his land surveys. The location at 1330 Maryland Avenue SW adds to the restaurant’s connection to D.C.’s history.
Onwuachi previously gained local fame through his role at the now-closed Kith/Kin in the Wharf, and Dōgon represents his second major project in an upscale hotel setting along the picturesque Potomac River.
Reflecting on his return, he shares, “It’s emotional to be back. There are a lot of memories attached to this place — both good and bad — but it feels like a homecoming.”
The chef revisited his roots through the successful opening of Tatiana in New York City last year, receiving critical acclaim and long wait lists, including a prestigious three-star review from the New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells.
During his break from D.C., Onwuachi developed a passion for golf, introduced to the sport by actor Adrian Holmes, who plays Uncle Phil on the modern adaptation of Bel-Air. He appreciates the tranquility the game offers: “It’s serene being out in nature, away from distractions,” he notes, all while enjoying a local dish from Potomac Grille.
In the lead-up to Dōgon’s opening, he shared the full menu for the first time with Salamander CEO Sheila Johnson during a private tasting. This weekend, they are also hosting their fourth annual Family Reunion at Salamander Middleburg, an event celebrating diversity in the culinary arts.
With the launch of Dōgon, Onwuachi feels more self-assured than during his first endeavors. He acknowledges the challenges faced with Shaw Bijou, which closed shortly after opening, and the pressure that accompanied Kith/Kin’s launch. “I feel different now. This one is really special for me,” he emphasizes.
Onwuachi has assembled a skilled team for Dōgon, including chef Martel Stone, who was with him at Kith/Kin, and beverage director Derek Brown, a leading mixologist in the D.C. area.
The idea for Dōgon has been four years in the making, rooted in Onwuachi’s fascination with Banneker’s historical contributions. “This man had a huge impact on the nation’s capital, earning recognition from George Washington — he must have been exceptional at what he did,” Onwuachi reflects.
Banneker, recognized as a self-taught mathematician and astronomer, utilized his knowledge of the stars to help shape D.C.
“Without West African science, D.C. wouldn’t exist as we know it today. So it’s essential to share that narrative through our dishes,” he explains.
As for the direction of Dōgon, Onwuachi is open to discovering what resonates with diners, noting how his previous restaurant had unexpected hits.
“At the core, I just want to prepare delicious food — that’s my primary focus,” he asserts.
As he enjoyed his golf game surrounded by nature, Onwuachi’s casual partner finally made the connection, exclaiming, “Wow, you’re in today’s Washingtonian crossword.” Onwuachi chuckled, humbly responding, “I’m just an amateur golfer, man.”
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dc.eater.com