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Charly Pierre, the chef and owner of Fritai, has experienced a significant year in 2024.
This year marks the third anniversary of Fritai, established by Pierre in the vibrant Treme neighborhood of New Orleans, known as the oldest Black neighborhood in the United States. Initially launching as a stall in St. Roch Market in 2016, Pierre introduced New Orleanians to the flavors of Haitian cuisine, specializing in fritai, a term referring to fried plantains, pork, and dumplings reminiscent of Haitian street fare that Pierre enjoys during visits to Haiti.
In a landmark year, Pierre also participated as a vendor at prominent local festivals, including French Quarter Fest, Bayou Boogaloo, and the iconic Jazz Fest. Additionally, he made his mark on the culinary competition scene as a contestant on the renowned show Top Chef: Wisconsin. To celebrate his journey, on September 19, Pierre is hosting a special Top Chef reunion dinner at Fritai alongside former competitors Manny Barella and Kévin D’Andréa, blending their respective culinary backgrounds into a unique five-course meal.
“It’s a moment for reflection,” expresses Pierre, a James Beard Award semifinalist in 2023 for Best Chef: South. “We often push forward without acknowledging our achievements. This is the first year I’ve really grasped the complexities of running a restaurant.”
After navigating numerous challenges, from Hurricane Ida’s devastation in 2021 to the economic repercussions of the COVID-19 pandemic, Pierre feels a sense of stability returning to the city. “New Orleans is settling into a new normal. Now it’s about how we adapt,” he notes. Although recent summer sales have declined since Fritai’s lunch service was halted for filming, he plans to reintroduce brunch on weekends starting in October, followed by lunch hours.
Pierre has previously appeared on shows like Chopped, but participating in Top Chef presented a unique challenge. The invitation to join came in 2022 and filming took place in Milwaukee in 2023, with the season premiere airing on March 20, 2024. Pierre’s journey ended during the fifth episode, ironically titled “Supper Club,” where he clinched his only Quickfire Challenge victory by creating a dish employing a classic Creole sauce from Madison’s culinary history.
“One of my mother’s signature dishes was her Creole chicken, and it remains on my menu,” Pierre shared during the competition. He reminisced about his mother, who passed away 15 years ago, expressing a heartfelt connection to her through his culinary success. “I know she would be proud of what I have accomplished.”
Despite winning the Quickfire, Pierre was eliminated following a team challenge due to overcooked fish. “I’ve faced many nerve-wracking situations as a chef, but nothing compared to this one,” he reflects. He acknowledged the judges’ critiques, admitting his cooking style influenced his choices. “I was cooking in a Haitian manner, which they interpreted as overly fried. While I’m capable of executing French techniques, my style is rooted in what I serve here at Fritai,” he explains.
“There are certainly lessons I’ve learned, and I can analyze my missteps now,” he admits, maintaining respect for the eventual winner of the season.
Following the airing of Top Chef, Pierre returned to everyday life in New Orleans. His booth at Jazz Fest, operating during the last weekend of April and the first weekend of May, featured a simplified menu of grilled shrimp pikliz, crab macaroni and cheese, and toasted corn “ribs.” He successfully generated substantial revenue, crucial for sustaining his business during the slower summer months.
Pierre had sought a Jazz Fest appearance for years, previously conducting food demos at the festival, which draws up to 100,000 attendees daily. Although he secured a spot at French Quarter Fest in 2023, he felt it wasn’t the right time. “This year, I committed fully and was ready for the challenge,” he recalls.
Although initial days at French Quarter Fest proved chaotic, the experience culminated in more efficient operations by the event’s conclusion. When it was time for Jazz Fest, unexpected problems arose, requiring quick solutions. “I faced the limitation of my fryer setup at the fairgrounds. I had to rent an alternative fryer and expedite its delivery, but once it was in place, everything ran smoothly,” he shared. The success at Bayou Boogaloo felt almost leisurely compared to his bustling festival experiences.
The successful participation in these three festivals helped Fritai generate significant sales, reaching near six figures. “All the planning paid off,” says Pierre.
With the busy fall tourism season approaching, Pierre is prepared, having expanded his kitchen staff to include a new female cook. “I’m thrilled to welcome a woman to our kitchen team. She possesses the strength and capability we need,” he remarks.
While Pierre harbors aspirations to open an additional restaurant in New Orleans, he imagines it might not be a replica of Fritai. “I envision a fine dining establishment that showcases French Haitian cuisine. But finding the right location took us four years,” he notes. “Patience is essential for us.” His business partner, Eva Chereches, provides pragmatic guidance, and he benefits from insights offered by seasoned local chefs.
Pierre emphasizes the importance of his team, stating, “While our check averages aren’t staggering, we continually seek solutions to ensure fair compensation without overwhelming our staff.”
One aspect of his life that Pierre anticipates eagerly is his upcoming wedding in October to Christine M. Hamilton, a Baton Rouge native and film stylist. He proposed the day before heading to Top Chef, and excitement is building for their intimate ceremony and celebratory parties, along with a honeymoon in Italy. “I can’t wait to start this new chapter as a married man,” he expresses joyfully.
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nola.eater.com