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Judy Schad: Pioneering American Goat Cheese

In 1976, Judy Schad embarked on an unexpected journey by moving her family to a run-down farm in southern Indiana. Little did she know that her life would drastically change following a neighbor’s decision to bring over a goat. This initial encounter would ultimately lead to a flourishing enterprise, and Schad would become a leading figure in American goat cheese production.

Recalling her unconventional start, Schad notes, “While others were joining country clubs, we chose to welcome a goat into our lives.” This decision marked the beginning of a gradual transformation; from a single goat to a thriving herd of 500, and from an interest in cooking to a full-fledged cheesemaking business.

Having previously worked as a high school English teacher and engaged in PhD studies of Renaissance Literature, Schad embraced cheesemaking partially out of necessity, as the family found itself overwhelmed with goat milk. “My passion for cooking pushed me into cheesemaking,” she shares. “We had so much milk, and my kids weren’t fans of drinking it.”

From Hobby to Business

In 1988, Judy launched Capriole Goat Cheese, establishing relationships with other cheesemakers across the United States who shared a commitment to artisanal practices, including Mary Keehn from Cypress Grove and Paula Lambert from Mozzarella Co. Reflecting on those early days, she says, “It was a modest beginning, just a group of women with a handful of goats.”

The initial excitement surrounding goat cheese production allowed Schad to transition her kitchen-based hobby into a commercial venture. As her cheeses gained popularity, she garnered numerous accolades and took on leadership roles, including vice president of the American Cheese Society and board membership with the American Dairy Goat Association. Her innovative contributions to cheesemaking earned her recognition, including the Women Chefs and Restaurateurs Outstanding in Her Field Award.

Among her notable creations is the Old Kentucky Tomme, developed for a special Kentucky Derby event. With a flavor profile characterized by buttery richness and hints of mild white mushroom, this cheese evolves in flavor as it ages, continuing to delight consumers. Capriole still provides cheese for Churchill Downs, connecting Schad’s lifelong love of the Derby with her craft.

Establishing the Capriole Brand

Early on in the business, the Schad family transported 70 gallons of milk to a nearby facility to produce cheese. However, by 1992, they outgrew that arrangement and constructed their own cheesemaking facility on the farm. “It was akin to the Wild West in the cheesemaking industry; local ingredients weren’t sought after at that time, as there was a preference for French products,” Schad recalls. Nevertheless, perseverance led to steady sales, despite the challenges.

Her trip to France alongside Keehn was pivotal, exposing her to traditional European cheesemaking techniques that influenced her work, leading to the creation of varieties like Wabash Cannonball. “At that time, few were venturing into artisan cheeses. We quickly became favorites among specialty retailers and culinary establishments, and even caught the attention of food critics,” she explains. A key moment occurred at an American Institute of Food and Wine event in Chicago, where she showcased her cheeses to a diverse audience, including well-known figures such as Julia Child.

Despite a slow start in the 1990s for domestic cheeses, a growing demand for specialty products saw Capriole expand its reach across the East Coast and into California, ultimately leading the Schad family to sell their goat herd in 2012 to focus solely on cheesemaking.

The Cheesemaking Process

Currently, Capriole sources milk from several local Amish farms, utilizing a 1,200-gallon tank. The milk undergoes pasteurization before being carefully ladled into vats for production. “Our methodology is distinctly labor-intensive,” states Sam Schad, Judy’s grandson and general manager at Capriole. The meticulous approach includes hand-ladling and employs traditional French techniques, ensuring quality and consistency in texture—one of the hallmarks of their products.

The cheeses undergo ripening processes that vary by type, with specific temperature controls maintained to create optimal aging conditions. The process not only ensures flavor maturation but also imparts unique characteristics through techniques like rind washing that enhance the flavor profile of the cheeses.

Diverse Offerings from Capriole

Capriole boasts around 11 distinct cheese varieties, including fresh, ripened, and aged options that change with the seasons. Among them, the Fresh Chevre stands out for its versatile pairing capabilities, while the sophisticated Tea Rose—a fresh chevre blended with herbs and aromatic flower petals—offers a unique culinary experience.

Winding their way through Capriole’s products, flavors created by infusing curds represent a pivotal evolution in their offerings. For example, Sofia, named after a cheese lover and close friend, is renowned for its striking rind and creamy citrus notes. Another favorite, Piper’s Pyramide, features a hint of smoked paprika that sets it apart in the market.

A signature of Capriole is the Wabash Cannonball, which is aged to develop a textured exterior with a complex flavor profile. Furthermore, Judy’s creation of the Old Kentucky Tomme has positioned it as one of America’s early artisan goat cheeses, drawing inspiration from traditional American cheese styles.

Lastly, Mont St. Francis, an experimental washed-rind cheese crafted with local stout, showcases Capriole’s innovative spirit. Its unique aging process results in a distinctive flavor that represents the craftsmanship of the farm.

Today, Judy Schad continues to reside on the farm, relishing the opportunity to explore new cheese varieties while enjoying the timeless favorites that have become hallmarks of Capriole. Her cheeses can be found in various culinary applications, from charcuterie boards to high-profile events like the Kentucky Derby, underscoring their established legacy in the culinary world.

Source
www.foodandwine.com