Photo credit: explorersweb.com
Matteo Della Bordella has embarked on an ambitious climbing expedition in Patagonia, targeting a longstanding unfinished route on the northwest face of Cerro Piergiorgio, which rises to 2,719 meters. This project traces back to 1995, when Maurizio Giordani and Luca Maspes first attempted the climb but were unable to complete it.
Della Bordella expressed his admiration for the imposing structure, describing it as “a 900m-high natural dam” that presents a smooth, mirror-like surface devoid of clear paths for ascent.
Three Decades of Unfinished Climbing
The initial attempt at the route, named Gringos locos, occurred precisely 30 years ago, but Giordani and Maspes only managed to open 21 pitches before leaving some sections unfinished. Despite multiple attempts by various teams since then, none have successfully completed the climb, leaving it a legendary challenge within the climbing community.
Maspes has characterized the route as an “unfinished work of art,” celebrating it as a “hymn to climbing imagination” amidst an “ocean of difficult but wonderful granite.” He extended his best wishes to Della Bordella and his team for their current endeavor.
Combining Experience with New Talent
Della Bordella leads the Eagle Team Project, a climbing initiative supported by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) that fuses seasoned climbers with emerging talent. Among his teammates is Dario Eynard, alongside Mirco Grasso, a 32-year-old climber from Venice, who is known for his exploratory prowess and opted to join the team in Patagonia despite his own plans.
Grasso had previously aimed to tackle the Italian route six years ago but was thwarted by adverse weather conditions that prevented his team from reaching the wall.
This venture follows a recent collaboration between Della Bordella, Grasso, and Alessandro Bau, where they sought to establish a new route on Aguja Val Biois within the Fitz Roy massif.
Progress and Challenges
During a brief three-day window of favorable weather, the team managed to ascend halfway up the wall. They experienced almost a month of waiting before this opportunity for climbing presented itself.
“Given the limited time and the slow pace of climbing, we made the decision to ascend as high as we could and fix ropes at the highest point, maximizing our chances for future climbs,” Grasso noted.
Amidst their climb, they reached a prominent feature on the wall referred to as the “Heart,” located just above the midpoint. Eynard shared on social media that the climb has been challenging and slow, characterized by alternating free and aid climbing sections.
He remarked on the sheer scale and isolation of Cerro Piergiorgio, acknowledging a sense of teamwork and shared ambition among the climbers. Eynard also noted the distinct logistical challenges of climbing in Patagonia compared to the Alps, indicating his ongoing learning process.
Currently, the team has returned to El Chalten to regroup and await the possibility of another favorable weather window as the climbing season approaches its end.
Embracing the Patagonia Experience
“Patagonia has been a roller-coaster of emotions, ranging from victories and retreats to rescues and injuries, intertwined with dreams and expectations,” Della Bordella shared on social media. “It’s too early to predict how far we will go, but we aim to extract every last drop from this incredible experience.”
Source
explorersweb.com