Jamu: The Traditional Indonesian Tonic Infused with Turmeric and Ginger

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In Indonesia, jamu is a cherished traditional drink, steeped in familial tradition and health-conscious practices. Passed down through generations, each family often has its own unique jamu recipe, which typically features a blend of spices, roots, and herbs such as turmeric, ginger, and tamarind. These ingredients are traditionally ground into a thick paste using a mortar and pestle, resulting in a potent tonic consumed as a shot, warm beverage, or refreshing cold drink.

During the pandemic, jamu saw a notable revival in Indonesia as more individuals sought out health-promoting foods and beverages. This resurgence has led to a boom in jamu cafés throughout the country, including modern establishments like Acaraki and Suwe Ora Jamu. These spots, run by young entrepreneurs, have integrated traditional flavors into contemporary cafe culture. Additionally, venues such as the St. Regis Bali Bar have even introduced cocktails inspired by jamu, enhanced with gin.

Meanwhile, the jamu movement is slowly gaining traction in the United States, where a growing community is embracing this herbal tonic. In the past, many Indonesian-Americans viewed the drink—once perceived as too bitter or salty—with skepticism, but attitudes are beginning to shift.

Among those leading the charge is Shanley Alya Suganda, a third-generation jamu maker who established Djamu in New York City in 2021. Her aim is to honor the age-old traditions of this herbal beverage. Suganda collaborates with venues like Wayan Restaurant, which blends Indonesian cuisine with French influences while featuring jamu cocktails on its menu. Other brands, like Jamulogy, are also entering the U.S. market, with juice bars like Puree Juice Bar in Maryland offering cold-pressed versions of jamu to enthusiastic patrons.

Understanding Jamu

Jamu represents an integral part of Indonesian culture, comparable to iconic dishes like nasi goreng and gado-gado. Despite its deep roots, it remains relatively unknown outside of Indonesia. Historically, jamu dates back over 1,300 years, originating within the royal courts as a longevity elixir. Today, it serves not only as a health remedy but also as a cultural symbol, carrying significant historical and spiritual weight.

Many individuals, including Ibu Lilik, a seasoned herbalist with over three decades of experience in crafting jamu, emphasize its cultural significance. “Jamu is more than just a drink; it embodies Indonesia’s rich heritage, crafted from nature’s bounty,” she notes, highlighting how the ingredients yielded from the land symbolize a lifelong connection to one’s roots.

Common ingredients in jamu—such as turmeric, ginger, tamarind, and lemongrass—are celebrated for their health benefits, including anti-inflammatory properties and digestive support. Lilik expresses that jamu serves as a holistic approach to wellness, deeply intertwined with Indonesia’s agricultural landscape.

For many Indonesians, including Ochi Latjuba, co-owner of Wayan, jamu is reminiscent of childhood memories, symbolizing care and nurturing through its consumption. Latjuba recalls her mother’s insistence on jamu’s immune-boosting properties when she was sick, underlining its role as both a physical remedy and emotional comfort.

However, the distinct flavor of jamu can be polarizing. Traditionally viewed as having strong, earthy notes, it often requires some adjustment from newcomers. Lilik acknowledges that her initial reaction was mixed, though the aromatic experience of preparing jamu with her family brought warmth and joy.

Reflecting on the complexity of jamu’s taste, Suganda shares how many grew up recoiling from its bitterness. “I remembered holding my nose; it felt more like a chore than a remedy,” she confesses. This aversion inspired her to develop jamu that retains its health benefits while being more palatable. “I aim to craft flavors that invite rather than repel,” she explains.

The Growing Presence of Jamu in the U.S.

Although the jamu community remains emerging in the United States, the increasing availability of jamu products speaks to a rising interest in this aspect of Indonesian wellness. Suganda notes, “At Djamu, we’ve seen a tremendous response over the past three years. Our offerings are appreciated for their authentic flavors and health advantages.”

Djamu’s flagship product, Always Sunny, features a blend of fresh turmeric, ginger, tamarind, lemon, and monk fruit, all made from organic ingredients. Meanwhile, Puree Juice Bar in Maryland prides itself on using cold-pressed components, steering clear of the gritty taste common to other brands that use powdered mixes.

“We focus on fresh ingredients like ginger, turmeric, and lemon, combined with local honey and filtered water,” explains Amy Waldan, the founder of Puree Juice Bar. Her creation emerged during the pandemic, evolving into a refreshing drink enjoyed both chilled and hot, which she highly recommends as a morning elixir.

The Legacy of Jamu

With an estimated 15,000 jamu recipes across Indonesia’s diverse islands, this herbal tonic boasts a rich variety. Lilik highlights her family’s twist on traditional jamu by incorporating orange juice into the mix, creating a bright flavor profile that appeals to modern tastes.

“Each ingredient in jamu is chosen with purpose, restoring balance not just within the body, but also within the broader environment,” she asserts. Lilik wishes for everyone who partakes in jamu to experience a taste of Indonesia’s vibrant heritage—an invitation to connect with a culture known for its depth, wisdom, and richness.

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