Photo credit: www.travelandleisure.com

Exploring the Duality of Kea: A Hidden Gem Among the Greek Islands

Living in Athens offers an incredible advantage: the easy access to numerous Greek islands, some of which are just a short ferry ride away. One such island is Kea, located only an hour from the mainland. However, to reach it, one must first navigate to the unassuming port of Lavrion, situated about an hour’s taxi ride from downtown Athens. Before boarding, visitors can indulge in a delightful lunch featuring calamari and hand-cut fries at quaint tavernas surrounding Lavrion’s fish market, evoking a nostalgic sense of a simpler time when leisurely boat rides were integral to Greek travel.

Despite being the nearest Cycladic island to Athens, Kea remains relatively obscure to international visitors. Locals, unbothered by tourism, will often refer to their home as Tzia, a name that reflects its true essence.

Viktoria Fassianos, daughter of the renowned Greek painter Alekos Fassianos, shared insight into this unique island. Her father encountered Kea in the 1960s and quickly fell in love with its unpretentious lifestyle. It became his summer retreat where he balanced painting in his studio in Ioulida and fishing at Xyla Beach.

Fassianos reminisced about their summers spent enjoying the island’s natural offerings, remarking on the simplicity of their childhood. From gathering sea urchins to crafting artistic toys, her memories reflect a way of life deeply connected to the island’s environment. The essence of her father’s artistic legacy continues in the Alekos Fassianos Atelier, where visitors can explore the artist’s unique creations, each corner expressing his distinctive style.

In Ioulida, the charm of Fassianos’s whimsical art can be observed in the local architecture, where red-roofed buildings descend the hills. The island’s artistic community flourished in the 1970s, with many artists from Athens and France finding solace in its modest appeal, contrasting with more glamorous Greek destinations.

Yannis Tzavelakos, who ventured to Kea around 35 years ago, also spoke about the island’s captivating charm. The founder of Kea Divers, Tzavelakos has been instrumental in establishing the Kea Underwater Historic Site, recognized as a marine conservation area that harbors shipwrecks and rich biodiversity. His adventures have included exploring the Britannic, a sunken hospital ship, which Jacques Cousteau famously discovered in 1975, highlighting the island’s underwater allure.

The beauty of Kea extends beyond its waters; the secluded Vroskopos beach, once only reachable by boat or hiking, is now a transformed locale featuring the luxurious One&Only Kéa Island. The resort’s villas overlook the pristine beach, providing an opulent experience complete with top-notch dining options, including the trendy Bond Beach Club. The advancements in infrastructure and luxury present a stark contrast to its previous untouched state.

General Manager Jerome Colson expressed a vision for Kea, suggesting that it deserves recognition akin to that of St. Bart’s, emphasizing its exclusivity and authenticity. Despite the extravagant accommodations that come with a hefty price tag, Colson is committed to keeping local traditions alive by integrating local experts into the guest experience.

Historically, Kea once comprised four city-states, leaving its diverse settlements rich in cultural significance. Wealthy Athenians frequented the island, often gravitating toward picturesque bays like Koundouros and Otzias, yet the island retains areas that feel untouched by time. In the more remote districts, such as Pera Meria, life ticks by at a slower pace, with residents primarily relying on traditional agricultural practices as they have for generations.

A quest for adventure on Kea led to Kaliskia beach, where emerald waters provide a refreshing escape. Shared with local families enjoying picnics, the beach felt simultaneously alive and serene. Tracing a path to the ancient site of Karthea, visitors can experience remnants of its former glory, accessible only by challenging trails or by swimming ashore—a testament to its enduring mystique.

At the end of a rugged road, Kea Retreat emerges as a sanctuary distinct from the luxury of One&Only. The Eshet family created this respite, which combines holistic practices with an authentic farmhouse experience. Their commitment to sustainability and simplicity pervades the retreat, offering a contrast to the opulent surroundings nearby.

Guests at Kea Retreat can participate in yoga and mindfulness retreats, promoting self-sufficiency with a focus on natural living. The culinary offerings, curated by chef Uri Eshet, celebrate local produce and innovative cooking techniques, culminating in dishes that highlight the island’s flavors and creativity.

While transitions unfold on Kea, from its rustic roots to luxurious retreats, the island embodies a unique blend of authenticity and modernity. Whether one seeks exclusive indulgence or a connection to traditional life, Kea possesses an exceptional allure that caters to all.

A version of this story first appeared in the May 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “True Blue.”

Source
www.travelandleisure.com