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The task of making corned beef from scratch may seem daunting to many; it often requires a week of preparation, which can lead to worries about mishaps during the process. The thought of raw meat being stored for an extended period can heighten these anxieties. However, my experience in corning beef proved to be not only manageable but also surprisingly rewarding, resulting in a product far superior to store-bought options.
To embark on this culinary journey, I sought guidance from Stephen Rodriguez, the executive chef of Tam O’Shanter in Los Angeles, who oversees the preparation of over 600 pounds of corned beef each St. Patrick’s Day. “Making corned beef is a delightful process,” he notes. “It involves vital skills like pickling and brining, which are unfortunately not as common today, despite being quite simple.”
The first step in crafting corned beef is to create a brine, a process Rodriguez describes as a customizable experience. He emphasizes the importance of using pink curing salt, which imparts that characteristic color to the meat. “Curing salt is essential,” he explains, adding it should be complemented with sugar, garlic cloves, peppercorns, and various pickling spices.
For inspiration, I explored several recipes online and concocted my own brine, incorporating mustard seed, black peppercorns, bay leaves, garlic, sugar, and fennel seeds, along with the pink curing salt. The proportion of water to spices varied widely in different recipes, so I aimed to prepare enough brine to fit my brisket, which meant mixing two cups of boiled brine with six cups of ice water, totaling eight cups. The aroma of the combined ingredients wafted through the kitchen as I watched the mixture bubble away. I chose a flat cut of brisket for its leanness and ease of slicing, although other cuts can be used depending on personal preference.
A common obstacle when attempting to corn beef at home is limited refrigerator space. In the restaurant, Rodriguez has a dedicated area in the walk-in cooler for brining. My own fridge isn’t particularly spacious, but a recent cleanup allowed me ample room for this project. For those working with larger cuts of meat, Rodriguez recommends cutting the brisket down into smaller portions or vacuum sealing it to conserve space.
Once the brine had steeped for about 10 minutes, I mixed it with ice water to cool it down and dilute the saltiness. I placed the brisket in a Ziploc bag and submerged it in the brine. To prevent any spills, I opted to set the bag in a cake pan, ensuring the brisket was fully immersed.
With the brisket and brine secured in the fridge, the most challenging part was completed. Rodriguez describes corning beef as a “set-it-and-forget-it” venture, which allows for relaxation as the days pass. I flipped the bag every couple of days to promote even curing.
Rodriguez recommends allowing the meat to cure for five to seven days. I opted to check on my brisket after five days, expecting a vibrant pink hue. Instead, it appeared slightly grey and the texture had become firmer. I rinsed the brine away with cold water and placed the brisket into a Dutch oven, adding ten cups of fresh water along with peppercorns, bay leaves, and a touch of allspice. I brought the mixture to a boil on the stovetop, skimming off any foam, then transferred the Dutch oven into a 300-degree oven for a lengthy cook. The scent of allspice wafting through my home was reminiscent of a cozy bakery.
Upon completing the cooking process, I was greeted by a beautifully pink piece of corned beef, a stark contrast to its initial color. As I fished the brisket out of the pot, its tenderness was evident; it easily fell apart at the touch of tongs.
Slicing into the brisket, I discovered the meat was incredibly tender and juicy, requiring minimal force to cut through the fat. The end result was exactly what one desires from corned beef: flavorful, moist, and pleasantly salty.
To serve, Rodriguez suggests traditional accompaniments such as braised cabbage, which is prepared using the brining liquid. I had previously made a pickled cabbage slaw, whose tartness balanced the richness of the beef perfectly. Potatoes, often served alongside corned beef, also helped mitigate the saltiness of the meal.
Looking ahead to my next corned beef project, I would consider trimming more fat from the brisket and using slightly less salt, as my version came out on the salty side. Overall, the experience made me a believer in the process of corning beef at home. Rodriguez echoes this sentiment: “Creating something like this from scratch fosters a greater appreciation for the art of cooking, connecting us to the roots of culinary traditions.”
Source
www.eater.com