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If there’s one key takeaway from the experiences shared at chef René Redzepi’s MAD Academy, it’s the realization that meaningful change begins with the commitment to act.
In a significant move towards sustainability, Marriott recently organized a training program for 15 chefs from its Luxury Collection (TLC) properties around the globe, including Asia, Europe, Latin America, and the United States. This initiative took place in Copenhagen, where chefs participated in a leadership summit focused on reducing the environmental impact of TLC’s 120 properties across 40 countries. The program, designed by MAD Academy, featured various activities such as guest lectures, interactive discussions, and culinary experiences aimed at inspiring chefs to embrace sustainable practices.
“We were in the process of charting the future direction for The Luxury Collection concerning sustainability and recognized the importance of establishing local food systems,” explained Philipp Weghmann, vice president and global brand leader of The Luxury Collection at Marriott. He noted that MAD Academy was an obvious choice for collaboration due to its strong reputation in culinary education, leading to a fruitful partnership.
The summit began with Jack Muirhead, MAD Academy’s Australian manager, and Ed Romein, responsible for the sustainability program, emphasizing the positive impacts of local sourcing on economic, environmental, and social conditions. They urged the chefs to leverage their connections with suppliers and guests alike to introduce innovative flavors, enhance biodiversity, and effect significant changes through the vast number of meals served daily. Participants acknowledged that implementing changes on a large scale represents a considerable challenge.
Matt Orlando, the former head chef of renowned establishments like Per Se and Amass, addressed some of these challenges. Now the owner of Air in Singapore, which welcomes over 200 guests daily, Orlando shared his experiences adapting to a new culinary landscape while faced with geographical limitations and limited local farming options.
Orlando emphasized the importance of fostering a culture of awareness and transparency. He introduced a unique practice of utilizing whiteboards in his kitchen to encourage team members to share and discuss ideas, thereby promoting ownership and accountability. This simple yet effective method led to improved staff retention and the establishment of beneficial kitchen practices.
After each insightful presentation, chefs engaged in group discussions to explore the ideas shared. Jan Horak, executive chef at Augustine Hotel in Prague, discussed his choice to use free-range, plant-based eggs, highlighting their superior binding qualities compared to cheaper alternatives. He has built a personal relationship with a local producer who feeds the chickens barley and corn, resulting in enhanced flavor.
Meanwhile, Axel Torres, senior executive chef at The Hythe resort in Vail, detailed his decision to shift from sourcing lamb from New Zealand to utilizing locally raised Colorado lamb. He also began incorporating locally sourced grass-fed buffalo and cheese from Colorado goats, and even explored using hemp for its nutritional benefits.
Weghmann reflected on how the diverse perspectives of chefs from various global backgrounds enriched the discussions, fostering deeper understanding and collaboration.
On the second day, Claus Meyer, co-founder of the illustrious restaurant Noma, inspired the group with an encouraging message about collaboration. He urged chefs to continually seek higher purposes in their work, emphasizing that it’s always possible to strive for greater impact.
Meyer introduced initiatives aimed at reviving indigenous varieties of legumes on Danish farms, a project aligned with his goal of reducing reliance on animal protein. His team has successfully incorporated these legumes into catered meals throughout Copenhagen, further demonstrating the potential of plant-based ingredients in culinary offerings.
Another speaker, Portia Hart, shared her journey in establishing Blue Apple Beach resort on the formerly isolated island of Tierra Bomba in Colombia. Hart transformed her business by implementing comprehensive recycling schemes and promoting the use of local resources. Her resort now features invasive lionfish, a sustainable alternative to depleted lobster, and embraces local cassava to replace gluten and potatoes.
Hart also introduced a unique supply chain assessment tool, which enables chefs to evaluate vendor sustainability practices and promote their commitment to ethical sourcing. This tool requires vendors to provide detailed information about their operations, ensuring partnerships align with the resort’s sustainability standards.
Returning to their respective kitchens, the Marriott chefs emerged from the training invigorated with new ideas and a supportive network. Horak considered hosting mushroom foraging events for guests, while Asterios Koustoudis, the executive chef of Hotel Grande Bretagne and King George Hotel in Athens, evaluated potential sourcing options for Greek pistachios and walnuts.
Hussain Zouhbi, executive chef at SLS Beverly Hills, expressed a desire to include more Indigenous ingredients, such as foraged acorns for flour. Meanwhile, Joris Larigaldie, director of culinary strategy at The Romanos in Costa Navarino, shared his organization’s commitment to strengthening ties with local producers to enhance guest experiences.
Weghmann highlighted that leadership support is essential for driving sustainability initiatives within teams. He noted that Marriott has been proactive in granting time and resources for teams to pursue meaningful changes.
“The Luxury Collection is in a prime position to reshape what guests expect from luxury hotels,” remarked Melina Shannon-DiPietro, MAD’s executive director. She emphasized the importance of delivering exceptional experiences that also prioritize environmental responsibility.
As part of its ongoing commitment, MAD Academy follows up with participating chefs after six, 12, and 36 months to monitor progress and share success stories. Notable trends have emerged, including increased collaboration with new producers and a reduction in packaging usage.
Shannon-DiPietro articulated an optimistic vision for the future, highlighting the potential for culinary excellence to align with sustainable practices. “We envision a future where every meal is not only delicious but also beneficial for our planet,” she concluded.
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