Photo credit: explorersweb.com
Historic Ascent on Punta Pioda’s North Face
From March 6 to 9, an extraordinary climbing feat was achieved by Roger Schaeli, Filippo Sala, and Silvan Schupbach as they forged the inaugural ascent of the north face of Punta Pioda, towering at 3,237 meters in the Swiss Alps.
While Punta Pioda, also known colloquially as Pioda di Sciora, may not possess the fame associated with iconic peaks like the Eiger, Matterhorn, or Grandes Jorasses, its north face exhibits a captivating and formidable profile that commands respect from the climbing community.
The first ascent of Punta Pioda’s north face was marked by determination. The team named their route ‘Luce e Tenebre.’ Photo: Thomas Crauwels
This majestic peak is situated in the Graubünden canton, part of the Sciora group, renowned for its dramatic granite cliffs and challenging alpine climbing opportunities.
The Sciora group showcases its stunning peaks: Sciora Dafora, Punta Pioda, Ago di Sciora, and Sciora Dadent. Photo: Jean-Louis Pitteloud
Filippo Sala notes that Schupbach is dedicated to unlocking the potential of neglected north faces and exploring the last untamed walls of the Alps. Over their four-day endeavor on the Punta Pioda face, they encountered hurdles such as loose rock, frigid conditions, and intricate technical challenges.
Images captured during the challenging ascent. Photos: Filippo Sala
“Each pitch was a genuine struggle,” Sala reflected, describing the climb as a mixture of aid and free climbing techniques on long, complex pitches. The climbers assigned their 700-meter route a grade of M8, A3, 70°.
The team chose to retreat to an alpine hut on their first night but spent the subsequent two nights bivouacked on the face itself, further demonstrating their commitment and resilience.
In an earlier venture in late February, Sala had successfully established another new route on the north face of Pizzo San Giacomo, a 2,923-meter peak located in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
The ascent of Punta Pioda marked a significant milestone as it was the first instance the three seasoned climbers tackled a route together, showcasing their shared passion for pushing boundaries in the alpine landscape.
Source
explorersweb.com