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A New Twist on Martinis: The White Wine Revolution

During the early days of the pandemic, many individuals sought creative outlets to cope with the sudden changes in daily life. Winemaker Dan Petroski, known for his work at Massican, turned to cocktail mixing—a pastime that eventually evolved into a unique reinterpretation of the classic Martini.

Petroski initially crafted countless Martinis using his own Massican vermouth, made from wine and local botanicals from Northern California. However, as time passed and the pandemic continued, he exhaustively depleted his supply, prompting a creative workaround inspired by the Italian philosophy of “cucina povera.”

“Cucina povera essentially means using the remnants of what’s available,” Petroski explains. Adopted during these times of constraint, he used his Massican white wine in lieu of vermouth to make Martinis, sparking his culinary creativity amidst challenges.

This philosophy resonated with Petroski, who has transitioned from a decade-long career in New York media to the world of winemaking, ultimately launching the Massican label in 2009. His innovative approach quickly gained recognition, leading to accolades such as being named San Francisco Chronicle’s Winemaker of the Year in 2017.

Petroski discovered that substituting vermouth with wine was surprisingly intuitive. “Essentially, you’re still infusing all the aromas and flavors akin to vermouth, but without the sugar or added alcohol,” he shares. He emphasizes that this shift not only reduces the drink’s sweetness but also decreases its overall alcohol content while preserving the essential flavors, aligning with a broader trend towards lighter, fresher beverages.

The outcome is a Martini that maintains its dry characteristics while becoming more approachable and less astringent—effectively a smoother alternative. Petroski expanded his experimentation to other cocktails, albeit with mixed results. While some combinations were acceptable, none surpassed the success he found with the Martini.

“I started integrating wine into my cocktail repertoire as a replacement for dry vermouth,” he noted. “It aligned perfectly with the citrus and herbal notes present in gin, providing the drink with brightness and lift.”

This exploration soon reached the East Coast, where it caught the attention of Jeremy Buck, the founder of Coterie in Charleston, South Carolina. At Coterie, which transforms from a coffee shop by day into a cocktail bar by night, Buck found inspiration in a classic 50/50 Martini made with white wine instead of vermouth. He showcased this innovative blend during the recent Food & Wine Classic in Charleston.

“My version combines an ounce-and-a-half of gin with an ounce-and-a-half of white wine, complemented by orange bitters and a lemon twist,” Buck explains. His choice of gin has included various styles, indicating that the cocktail’s adaptability allows it to harmoniously integrate different botanicals and flavors.

He advocates for flexibility with both the gin and the white wine used in the cocktail. “You can tailor the drink to match your preferences or what you have available at home. A lighter botanical gin works well, but more robust options still resonate,” he states.

Similarly, Buck suggests being discerning with the white wine; choosing a bottle that is neither overly oaky nor too sugary is crucial for achieving the desired balance in flavor. He recommends starting with something like Massican Annia, a blend of grapes offering a fresh profile that aligns with the objective of a clean, revitalizing Martini. “Aim for drier selections,” he advises, steering clear of heavily buttery Chardonnays that may overwhelm the delicate flavors.

Source
www.foodandwine.com