Overcoming My Fear of the Open Seas: How an Expedition Cruise Transformed My Perspective

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“Islands: Paradise or a trap?” contemplated Dr. Pepper Trail, a leading forensic ornithologist, while discussing the struggles of island birds like the dodo. In the theater’s back row, I relaxed with my iced Americano, pondering a similar question about cruises: Are they a paradise or merely a trap?

As a seasoned travel writer with over a decade of experience, I had consistently sidestepped cruise invitations, choosing to explore new places independently. While many fear flying, my apprehension is rooted in the ocean’s vastness, as highlighted by actress Quinta Brunson, who recently remarked, “There’s no reason for me to be in the middle of the ocean. If I want to go to a hotel, I’ll go to the Four Seasons in Philadelphia.”

My unease with organized travel persisted, as I took pride in curating thoughtful trips that allowed me to immerse myself in new cultures rather than ticking off tourist hotspots. However, after battling cancer, which left lasting fatigue and introduced a new awareness of my fragility, I found myself open to the idea of a cruise. It became an opportunity to access remote islands like the Seychelles, where I could encounter giant tortoises and red-footed boobies—experiences that would be challenging to arrange on my own.

The cruise began in Zanzibar, Tanzania, before heading to the secluded atolls and outer islands of the Seychelles. My interest piqued when I discovered a 12-night voyage called “Cruising the Seychelles and Coastal Tanzania,” offered by Abercrombie & Kent. A small Ponant expedition ship named Le Bougainville would facilitate this journey, accommodating just 148 guests while including daily lectures from naturalists and conservationists. The assurance of onboard medical support alleviated my anxiety about being far from hospitals.

Equipped with luxurious amenities, every stateroom on Le Bougainville features a private balcony and indulgent touches like Diptyque bath products and a comprehensive room service menu. Despite previous warnings about hidden cruise fees, this experience promised true inclusivity, featuring fine wines and daily afternoon tea. The atmosphere was crafted to feel less like a commercial cruise and more akin to an intimate boutique hotel, prompting me to embrace this journey wholeheartedly. I packed my bags, left my chihuahua with my parents, and embarked on this global adventure.

After a stimulating day exploring Zanzibar and enjoying a welcoming dinner at the Park Hyatt, I boarded the ship alongside approximately 80 fellow passengers. A rejuvenating shower preceded my exploration of the ship’s inviting library and bar, which opened onto an expansive observation deck offering breathtaking views. My next stop was the medical facility, where I encountered Dr. Louisa. Given my cancer history, the fear of seasickness loomed large, as nausea had become a significant trigger for me. Sharing my concerns caused me to tear up, but Dr. Louisa, understanding my plight, provided me with Dramamine and quickly became my trusted ally during the voyage.

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