Photo credit: www.whowhatwear.com
Welcome to Who What Wear Travels, a collection of curated travel guides highlighting fashionable destinations. This guide covers everything from stylish hotels and unforgettable dining experiences to ideal travel wardrobes, all assessed by accomplished locals and well-traveled fashion enthusiasts.
Having spent my entire life in Southern California gives me extensive knowledge about the region’s hidden gems. I can recommend everything from the top sandwich place in San Diego, Con Pane, to a quaint, lesser-known hotel in West Hollywood, The Charlie. At present, my focus is Palm Springs, a desert oasis I have frequented for almost twenty years. My initial visits coincided with the BNP Paribas Open in Indian Wells, but I quickly discovered that Palm Springs offers much more than just a quick stopover.
While my first attraction was tennis, others are drawn to Palm Springs for the Coachella music festival, which takes place just 40 minutes away. However, focusing solely on the festival means overlooking the city’s rich mid-century architecture, exceptional dining options, unique vintage shopping, and remarkable hotels.
In crafting this Palm Springs travel guide, I collaborated with Kellie Brown, a creative influencer and interior designer from Deeply Madly Modern. After relocating from New York City to Los Angeles, she developed a deep affection for her Palm Springs vacation home, finally deciding to make it her permanent residence. Brown shared her own tips for what to pack: “Lightweight caftans, plenty of sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, non-metal sunglasses (to prevent a scorched nose!), sneakers for sunset biking, a good book for lounging by the pool, and a Polaroid camera to capture the town’s charm!”
Before sharing specific recommendations, I want to highlight the city’s historical significance. One of Palm Springs’ most delightful aspects is its prominent association with Hollywood. Starting in the 1920s and 1930s, this desert paradise became a favored retreat for movie stars escaping from the public eye. Given that studios needed actors to be within two hours for potential reshoots, Palm Springs emerged as an ideal sanctuary. By the 1940s and 1950s, the area was bustling with celebrities like Frank Sinatra, Marilyn Monroe, and Elvis Presley, many of whom not only vacationed here but also owned homes.
This golden era saw the rise of striking mid-century modern architecture, as numerous stars commissioned elegant residences that blended harmoniously with the desert backdrop. The Rat Pack frequently hosted parties and entertained at local venues, solidifying Palm Springs’ place in the annals of classic Hollywood lore. Over time, the city has remained a beloved destination for the elite, especially during key events like the Palm Springs International Film Festival.
Additionally, Palm Springs has gained popularity as a filming location. Notably, Don’t Worry Darling, which stars Florence Pugh and Harry Styles, was shot here. This enduring connection between Hollywood and Palm Springs has significantly influenced the city’s identity, marking it as a stylish destination.
Where to Stay
I’m not keen on large, sprawling resorts; instead, I prefer intimate boutique hotels. If that resonates with you, let me introduce you to Korakia Pensione. It’s among the most charming and distinctive hotels I’ve visited. During my stay, I resided in the Bedouin Suite, complete with a private patio, a wood-burning fireplace, a kitchen, and a surprisingly large stone tub with a rain shower.
This hotel consists of two unique properties, each with a rich history. One side features Moroccan-inspired villas originating from the 1920s, crafted by painter Gordon Coutts, while the Mediterranean-style villas on the opposite side belonged to silent film star J. Carrol Naish. I recommend checking out the photos and descriptions of each accommodation before making a decision since every room is one-of-a-kind.
“The Parker epitomizes Palm Springs luxury,” Kellie Brown states. “From the moment you arrive, you are transported to another world. It’s a place where you can truly envision enjoying your time and maybe even staying forever. The atmosphere strikes a balance between elegance, charm, and comfort, with breathtaking grounds and delicious food.”
Another whimsical option is the Trixie Motel, known for its vibrant, themed rooms. This hotel is akin to Palm Springs’ own version of the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo, albeit more recent and smaller. Each of its seven themed rooms offers a diverse experience, making it a fantastic choice for a bachelorette getaway.
What to Do
While you could simply drive by some stunning mid-century homes, The Modern Tour offers an insider’s view, allowing you to explore some of the city’s architectural treasures. One of the most remarkable locations is the Frey House II (available on select tours, requiring advance reservations). This tour is presented in collaboration with the Palm Springs Art Museum, another must-see destination. According to Kellie, “It features fantastic contemporary art and is a perfect escape on sweltering days. A street fair occurs on Thursdays right outside, making it an absolute essential stop.”
Sunnylands, although technically in Rancho Mirage, is only a short 15-minute drive from Palm Springs. This remarkable estate, completed in 1966, has welcomed high-profile guests, including President Dwight D. Eisenhower and Queen Elizabeth II. The 15-acre gardens can be viewed for free, but you will need to purchase a guided tour to gain entry to the historic 25,000-square-foot home.
The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway offers an exhilarating ride ascending roughly 6,000 feet in just 10 minutes. At its peak, visitors enjoy observation decks, two restaurants, and more than 50 miles of hiking trails. Be sure to dress in layers, as the temperatures at the summit typically drop 30 to 40ºF compared to the valley floor, and snow may blanket the area between December and April. The views from both the tram and lookout points are simply unparalleled.
Where to Shop
My experience browsing vintage finds at Mitchell’s was delightful, showcasing high-end designers like Valentino, Pucci, and Chanel among pieces dating from the 1960s to the early 2000s. The store also offers contemporary designer items, menswear, jewelry, and footwear.
Market Market, spanning 40,000 square feet on South Palm Canyon Drive, is another highlight. It features a varied collection of vintage clothing, home décor, furniture, and art, in addition to the Palm Springs Bottle Shop, which offers beer, wine, spirits, and snacks—truly a one-stop destination!
The Mojave Flea Trading Post stands out as both a shopping hub and cultural center, showcasing handmade items from local artisans in the Coachella Valley, such as ceramics and hand-poured candles. Vintage and repurposed clothing for men and women can also be found, making it a tempting place to shop.
Where to Dine
Located within the Holiday House hotel, The Pantry is an excellent choice for brunch on weekends and serves lunch and dinner during the week. The lemon ricotta pancakes with blueberries are a must-try.
If you’re seeking a cozy cocktail bar, the dimly lit Tailor Shop should be on your list. Signature cocktails include the refreshing Breath in the Afternoon, featuring absinthe and champagne, alongside Lace Made, which blends Astral tequila and Ancho Reyes Verde liqueur.
For a taste of former Hollywood glamour, visit Melvyn’s, a restaurant frequented by stars like Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra since its opening in 1975. Renowned for its martinis and live music, the menu offers elevated comfort food, from mac and cheese to gourmet burgers.
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www.whowhatwear.com