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Isabel Coss, co-chef at Pascual, a celebrated new restaurant in Washington D.C., emphasizes the centrality of corn in Mexican cuisine, stating, “Mexican cuisine starts with corn.” Each day at Pascual begins with the preparation of masa from corn that was cooked the previous night, which is then transformed into tortillas, tlayudas, tetelas, and flautas.
Hailing from Mexico City, Coss draws inspiration not only from her native city but also incorporates techniques from Oaxaca. For instance, to emulate the region’s traditional underground cooking methods, the team at Pascual grills agave leaves and utilizes a wood-fired hearth. This technique is essential for dishes like the al pastor taco, which is unique on the menu and features marinated pork cooked on a rotisserie alongside pineapple. Coss describes this dish as akin to a shawarma, highlighting the cultural interplay within Mexican culinary practices.
Coss partners with her husband, chef Matt Conroy, to create a harmonious synergy in the kitchen. Both chefs also work together at the esteemed D.C. restaurant Lutèce, where they have established a dynamic of mutual respect and collaboration. Coss remarks, “Your partner is the person you admire the most so why would I not [work with them]?”
Conroy reflects on their partnership, saying, “We get to bounce ideas off of each other. What her strong points are probably my weaknesses and vice versa.” This collaboration not only strengthens their relationship but also enhances their culinary creations at both venues.
For an inside look at their preparations for a busy service, viewers can check out the latest episode of Mise en Place, which showcases how the duo and their team craft dishes at their acclaimed restaurant.
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www.eater.com