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New Routes on Kangchenjunga: A Convergence of Talented Climbers

This spring, the Kangchenjunga region will witness a flurry of climbing activity as prominent mountaineers attempt to establish new routes. Notably, veteran climbers Benet Hamor and Simone Meroi are set to join Piolet d’Or laureate Yuri Koshelenko and his climbing partner Alexey Lonchinsky, who are also aiming to carve out a new path in the challenging terrain.

The two teams share significant commonalities, particularly in their pursuit of unexplored faces, commitment to pure alpine climbing style, and foundational values shaping their mountaineering philosophies. Both groups began their expeditions focused on the formidable 8,000-meter peaks in the late 20th century but have since transitioned to a focus on more technical and exploratory routes on less prominent mountains, forging their unique paths in the climbing world.

At 62 years old, Koshelenko represents the last of the Soviet-era climbers from the 1990s, a period during which he garnered multiple prestigious awards. He has cultivated a specialization in climbing new routes on particularly challenging faces while also mentoring a new generation of Russian climbers. Koshelenko’s significant achievements include winning the Piolet d’Or in 2003 for a remarkable 2,500-meter line on Nuptse’s south face, a feat achieved in collaboration with fellow climber Valeri Babanov. Babanov, interestingly, is also in Nepal with ambitions of summiting Everest without the use of supplementary oxygen.

Koshelenko and Lonchinsky, aged 43, have a recent history of success, having made their latest ascent together in Nepal in 2023, achieving the first ascent of the 6,645-meter Rolwaling Kang Shar. Following that, in 2024, Koshelenko recorded another first ascent on an unnamed 6,000-meter peak in Ladakh, Indian Himalaya, along with climbers Bayarsaikhan Luvsand and Mikhail Pups.

The Russian climbers have publicly confirmed their intentions via RussianClimb, although specifics regarding the peak they aim to tackle remain undisclosed. As of now, the Department of Tourism of Nepal has yet to update its permit list since April 9, leaving many details about this upcoming expedition eagerly awaited until the climbers conclude their journey.

Source
explorersweb.com