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The Legacy of South Shore Bar Pizza

The notion of “South Shore bar pizza” has evolved into a regional icon, as recalled by South Shore native Paul Butler. Growing up in a semi-rural setting about 30 miles from Boston, dining options were limited, often revolving around upscale Italian restaurants, Chinese takeout, or the beloved pizza from Poopsie’s. “I didn’t know ‘South Shore bar pizza’ was a thing until I saw them sold at [hip Somerville spot] Hot Box,” Butler admits.

Though the upscale Italian restaurant has closed and the family-run Chinese spot has relocated, Poopsie’s continues to thrive, serving up vodka sodas, Harpoon IPA, and its classic 10-inch pizzas, characterized by slightly charred, cheesy edges, all within a nostalgic ’80s dive bar atmosphere.

Bar pizza is known for its simplicity. Typically measuring 10 inches across, it features cheese and toppings that extend from edge to edge, eschewing a traditional crust border. Nowadays, a bar pizza can be enjoyed for around $10, with an additional dollar for each topping.

These pizzas are often baked in lipped, 10-inch steel or cast iron pans, similar to bakeware from Lloyd Pans, a recognized manufacturer of pizza tools, including those for the popular Detroit-style pizzas. However, dedicated South Shore enthusiasts prefer to use the steel pans sourced from Baystate Restaurant in Brockton, Massachusetts, revered for their long-standing quality.

The edge of a South Shore bar pizza is distinctively “laced,” a term affectionately used by locals to describe the slightly burnt tips. This phenomenon is created by the unique cheese blend—primarily mozzarella with a mix of cheddar—which not only contributes to the pie’s greasy reputation but also enhances its flavor profile.

With a thin yet crispy crust that possesses a slight chewiness, bar pizza strikes a balance between New Haven-style coal-fired pizza and Chicago’s tavern-style thin crust. The bottom is saliently biscuit-like, achieved through cheddar fat melding with butter or shortening used to grease the pan.

Variety characterizes the toppings available on bar pizzas, with classic options including plain cheese, caramelized onions, and banana peppers, alongside unique selections that mirror the South Shore’s multicultural heritage. These can include Portuguese linguiça, Italian anchovy, Greek feta, and an American twist with mashed ground beef known as “Hamburg.”

More imaginative choices have emerged recently, such as Poopsie’s House Special, featuring mushrooms, onions, peppers, and pepperoni over a bubbling cheese base, or the buffalo chicken pie, which comes with a side of blue cheese for dipping. Butler, now running the kitchen at Spoke Wine Bar in Somerville, advises moderation with toppings—three or more can lead to a soggy, unmanageable pizza due to the thin crust. His go-to order is a classic pepperoni and cheese.

As a staple of South Shore cuisine, the quest for the best bar pizza generates spirited competition among local eateries. Each venue has its own style, fostering local pride. At Poopsie’s, chef Tony Malaguti artfully ladles sauce onto the dough pressed in a steel pan, expertly spinning it to achieve an evenly coated surface while letting some sauce spill over to create an enhanced crispy edge.

The name “Poopsie” pays homage to the late owner Don Thompson’s wife, and is a nostalgic reference for residents along Route 3. The bar is a familiar stop for summer vacationers who enjoy a drink while waiting for their pizzas to cook before heading to their Cape Cod destinations.

The menu at Poopsie’s is straightforward, and the staff is accustomed to regulars who place their orders with unspoken signals—terms like “crispy” indicate a desire for extra oven time, while “half-baked” is requested for takeaway orders so that customers can finish them at home.

Lindsey Mackay recalls her fond memories of dining at Poopsie’s since childhood, often accompanied by her aunt. As she waits for her pizza, indulging in Yesterday’s Chili and vodka soda, she reminisces about spending time at the vintage Pac-Man machine and jukebox. “I grew up on their pizzas, including celebrating birthdays,” she shares, reflecting on how her connection to the place has persisted over the years.

Mackay finds that the essence of her childhood pizza experience is captured in its unique taste. “I remember liking it so much that the cheese became the edge, and there was the ‘frico’ that’s crispy and charred,” she recounts, likening it to the caramelized cheese found on Detroit-style pies.

To complement the rich flavors of a bar pizza, regular patrons typically order refreshing beverages, like crisp lagers or vodka sodas made with Tito’s. Spend a little extra time at the bar, and you might find groups enjoying a pitcher of Harpoon IPA, though a request for the Scotch selection might draw a raised eyebrow.

As someone who has left his hometown, Butler expresses nostalgia for the local dining landscape, now filled with chains that offer little sense of belonging or culture. “You get 99 Restaurant, Friendly’s, and just a lot of chains like that,” he laments. “There are very few places left that give a sense of place.” Poopsie’s remains a cherished destination for those seeking an authentic taste of the South Shore, evoking memories and a strong sense of community.

Source
boston.eater.com