Photo credit: www.eater.com
Noma’s Legacy: A Deep Dive into Redzepi’s New Series, Omnivore
As Noma prepares to close its doors for good at the end of 2024, chef René Redzepi is not solely focused on this bittersweet farewell. Instead, he has expanded his reach into the realm of television, recently starring in his own Apple TV+ series, Omnivore. This show signals a possible new chapter for Redzepi beyond his iconic Copenhagen restaurant.
Omnivore aims to explore and celebrate the artisanal qualities of eight fundamental ingredients: salt, pork, corn, tuna, coffee, rice, banana, and chile. Each episode delves into a different ingredient, showcasing Redzepi and his team as they travel around the globe—from the salt harvesters in France to the bustling fish markets of Japan. In a conversation with Food & Wine, Redzepi noted that the series drew considerable inspiration from the acclaimed documentary series Planet Earth, famously narrated by David Attenborough. The analogy is fitting; much like Planet Earth, Omnivore features picturesque coastlines and misty forests, prompting some to refer to it as Planet Earth for Food. Additionally, the sweeping visuals and evocative soundtracks will remind viewers of Chef’s Table, yet while Chef’s Table spotlights renowned chefs, Omnivore shifts the emphasis toward the very ingredients that shape culinary artistry.
Redzepi is known for his relentless pursuit of exceptional culinary materials, and Omnivore serves as an extension of this quest. The series argues for the importance of these ingredients and the artisans behind them. Notably, viewers witness the meticulous dedication of Serbian farmer Suzana Ilic, who cultivates peppers for what is deemed the world’s finest paprika. Similarly, when rice farmer Jayakrishnan Thazhathuveetil candidly discusses the challenges posed by climate change to his harvests and family, the gravity of his concerns resonates deeply.
However, the narrative in Omnivore ultimately circles back to Noma. The series does not focus merely on the value of the ingredients themselves or their preparation in home kitchens; rather, it frames them in the context of the extraordinary dishes crafted in Noma, which many will never experience. Through Redzepi’s voiceovers and various glimpses of Noma’s environment, the show casts the chef as the ultimate authority on these products. This focus often sidelines the artisans, who deserve more on-screen time to narrate their stories and address the pressing issues, such as the impact of climate change. Furthermore, the show fails to critique the sustainability practices involved in transporting these gourmet ingredients from distant locales to Copenhagen, a notable oversight given Noma’s origin-centric philosophy.
Fans of Noma and those who appreciate stunning visuals will likely find Omnivore captivating. Scenes featuring Redzepi serving whole reaper chiles to eager diners may evoke cherished memories of Noma experiences. Moreover, the impressive cinematography elevates the series, offering an aesthetic feast for viewers.
For others, however, the connection to Redzepi may feel tangential. While the picturesque imagery of salt, chiles, and Spanish pig celebrations captivates, the storytelling could benefit from a more robust exploration of its themes. Valuable time allocated to artistic shots detracts from potential interviews with farmers and producers, narrowing the narrative’s depth. The ingredients and their origins are critical components that shape our culinary landscape, yet Omnivore often places them in the shadow of an exclusive Noma experience, which feels increasingly unattainable.
The topics covered in Omnivore demand a more urgent and profound investigation. However, the series, while visually compelling, resonates like a beautifully plated dish that lacks the substance to truly satiate. It suggests an opportunity missed to delve deeply into the landscape of food and the people who cultivate it.
Source
www.eater.com