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Exploring India’s Textile Heritage Through Recent Exhibitions
For many years, the gamchha has been an integral part of daily life in India, particularly resonating with the working-class communities of West Bengal and beyond. This traditional scarf, characterized by its red-and-white checks, serves multiple purposes, such as a towel, pillow, turban, eye mask, and shoulder wrap.
A recent exhibition in New Delhi, titled Gamchha: From the Ordinary to the Extraordinary, showcased the diverse representations of this simple yet significant piece of fabric, featuring over 250 different versions from 14 Indian states. The display included various styles, from the thin-bordered white gamchhas of Kerala to the intricate Ikat designs of Odisha, illustrating the rich regional variations of this versatile textile.
Textiles expert Jaya Jaitly, founder of the Dastkari Haat Samiti, emphasized the exhibition’s aim to highlight the gamchha as a symbol of social equality that has been overlooked in conventional textile narratives. This event was part of a broader initiative to transform the understanding of Indian textiles, moving beyond the luxurious fabrics often celebrated in mainstream fashion.
India’s textile industry, renowned for its unique contributions—from lavish silks and brocades to lesser-known traditions—has historically been documented in a way that fails to represent its full spectrum. However, recent exhibitions have begun to create a paradigm shift, featuring local artisans and connecting them directly with audiences, thus fostering a more equitable textile ecosystem.
Ritu Sethi, the founder of the Crafts Revival Trust, noted that advances in technology, particularly social media platforms like Instagram, have helped to elevate the visibility of craftspeople. This increased exposure is reshaping the community of curators and enthusiasts to include a variety of professionals from diverse fields who share a common goal: to enrich the textile narrative by bringing forth the stories of the artisans themselves.
As acclaimed designer David Abraham articulated, this movement towards a more inclusive identity regarding Indian textiles is both a reclaiming of cultural pride and an acknowledgment of the deep connections between people and textiles. He remarked on the cultural significance of textiles in India, where different colors, weaves, and styles convey rich meanings.
In Kolkata, the ongoing exhibition Textiles of Bengal: A Shared Legacy explores the unique textile history of undivided Bengal, presenting rare fabrics and garments from as far back as the 17th century. This display includes celebrated handwoven sarees and dhotis that showcase the region’s renowned weaving traditions, such as Jamdani, alongside Indo-Portuguese embroideries and Haji Rumals, which illustrate the historical trade connections with various cultures.
Furthermore, the exhibition features live performances and demonstrations, illustrating traditional craft techniques. Dancer Purnima Ghosh, for example, performed dressed in a hand-painted Batik sari, highlighting the artistry involved in this fabric-making process.
In addition to retracing history, several exhibitions aim to showcase the future of textiles. The recently concluded event Pampa: Textiles of Karnataka displayed works from diverse communities, such as the embroidery of the Lambanis and the Kaudi quilts of the Siddhi community. These exhibits focus on the stories of nomadic and tribal groups, celebrating their resilience through textile practices.
Another notable exhibition, Surface: An Exhibition of Indian Embroideries and Surface Embellishment as Art, highlighted the crossover of textiles into contemporary art, featuring exceptional works by artists such as Manisha Parekh. This exploration of textiles not only serves to document contemporary practices but also to revamp the narrative surrounding their historical significance.
The Pehchaan: Enduring Themes in Indian Textiles project, presented by the Devi Art Foundation in collaboration with the National Museum in Delhi, further endeavors to address gaps in historical documentation by showcasing recurring visual themes in Indian textiles over centuries. Co-founder Lekha Poddar stressed the necessity of providing young designers with historical references to inspire their work.
As these exhibitions continue to gain traction, organizers are optimistic about cultivating a vibrant future for the textile sector. Curatorial adviser Mayank Mansingh Kaul anticipates a flourishing network of creators, driven by collaborative efforts and an emphasis on quality. With these initiatives, the appreciation for Indian textiles, interlaced with stories of cultural identity and craftsmanship, is set to grow extensively.
Source
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