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Culinary Institute of America: A Shift Towards Inclusivity

Roshara Sanders, at just 29 years old, has made history as the first Black woman to teach culinary arts at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (CIA). As an Army veteran and winner of the television show Chopped, her appointment is seen as a significant milestone in the school’s ongoing efforts to diversify its faculty and curriculum, which traditionally has lacked representation. Dean Brendan Walsh of the School of Culinary Arts recognizes that Sanders’s role is “a pivotal point in the CIA’s history,” as the institution starts to address long-standing calls from students for greater inclusivity.

In recent years, the CIA’s Black Culinarian Society advocated for the incorporation of African influences on American cuisine into the school’s curriculum. Their initiative culminated in the development of a new course titled “Cuisines and Cultures of Africa and its Diaspora in the Americas,” guided by the expertise of notable figures such as Dr. Jessica B. Harris, the author of High on the Hog. Sanders played a key role in crafting this curriculum, which officially began being taught to students this spring.

Reflecting on her experiences, Sanders noted, “I cried many days as I read about my own culture because there were a lot of things I didn’t know.” She commended the CIA for its audacity in addressing topics like race, especially in a climate where such discussions can be contentious.

Collaborating with Sanders in this transformative process is Rupa Bhattacharya, who leads CIA’s Strategic Initiatives Group. Bhattacharya emphasizes the need for a broader interpretation of diversity, stating, “We’re trying to shift the way diversity is seen.” Her work connects health care and food professionals in ways that promote sustainable practices and underscore the importance of community involvement within these discussions.

Under Bhattacharya’s leadership, the CIA has expanded its understanding of sustainability to include social dimensions alongside economic and environmental concerns. Taylor Reid, chair of CIA’s Farming and Food Systems Program, noted Bhattacharya’s influence in ensuring that “our idea of sustainability doesn’t leave people behind.”

In 2023, Bhattacharya took the initiative to organize CIA’s Worlds of Flavor conference, centering discussions around culinary authenticity within an increasingly interconnected world. She articulated a shift in perspective: “The question is not: ‘Does this Chinese restaurant do dumplings like in Chengdu,’ but, ‘Is this true to the chef’s experience?’” This approach aims to redefine what authenticity means in a diverse culinary landscape.

Bhattacharya’s personal connection to the food and cultural discussions at the CIA resonates deeply with her mission. “My mom stopped cooking because her doctor told her that Bengali fish, vegetables, and rice are a bad diet. Generational loss happened to me,” she shared. Her dedication to respecting and understanding diverse culinary traditions has become central to her work at the CIA.

The call for a more inclusive approach to food and education comes as a source of optimism. “Making sure there is space for optimism, joy, and care is the most critical thing I do,” Bhattacharya stated.

In agreement, Sanders pointed out that even difficult discussions surrounding subjects like racism and colonization can find a more palatable context through food.

As CIA works towards serving a diverse student body of over 3,000 individuals from countries such as India, South Korea, Argentina, Brazil, and Canada, there is an acknowledgment of the continued need for improvement in showcasing this diversity. Montana Brumfield, president of the Black Culinarian Society, emphasized the potential for growth in this area.

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