Photo credit: explorersweb.com
The remarkable ascent of The Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park has intrigued climbing enthusiasts around the world. Renowned climber Tommy Caldwell dedicated several years to this route, pushing the boundaries of big wall climbing.
The climb achieved notoriety in 2015 when Caldwell and his climbing partner, Kevin Jorgeson, completed the first ascent, marking a pivotal moment in climbing history. This ambitious route, now deemed the most challenging big wall climb globally, was briefly replicated by Czech climber Adam Ondra in 2016, further solidifying its status.
Now, nearly ten years later, Belgian climber Sebastien Berthe has successfully summited The Dawn Wall, becoming its fourth ascendant. Working closely with French climber Soline Kentzel, the duo accomplished the climb in a continuous 14-day push, reaching the summit on January 31.
Berthe’s journey to this historic milestone was not without its challenges. Having faced a back injury, difficult weather conditions, and moments of discouragement, his determination ultimately prevailed. He expressed his exhilaration regarding the climb in a recent conversation. Although he first attempted The Dawn Wall in 2022, he found the critical 5.14d traverses as daunting as Jorgeson had encountered, whose night ascent of this section has become legendary.
Sebastien Berthe on climbing The Dawn Wall
What motivated you to take on The Dawn Wall?
Berthe: It’s hard to pinpoint the exact moment I became inspired. Back in 2019, I managed to climb the Nose in eight days, which I regarded as a significant achievement. This experience boosted my confidence in my ability to tackle Yosemite’s unique climbing style, which I have always enjoyed.
After completing the Nose, I felt compelled to challenge myself with an ambitious goal. My excitement grew when I witnessed Adam Ondra’s ascent in 2016, a moment that left a lasting impression on me. Initially uncertain about my capabilities, my success on the Nose convinced me I could at least attempt The Dawn Wall.
When did you first become aware of The Dawn Wall?
Berthe: I distinctly remember the moment when Tom and Kevin reached the top. Following their endeavor from Belgium, I was captivated by the media frenzy that ensued. It was the first instance I witnessed such a significant event in the climbing community.
Freeing El Cap
The following year, I ventured to Yosemite, where I had the chance to witness Adam Ondra’s dedication as he worked on his ascent. His struggles and subsequent success served as an influential example. At the time, I had not set my sights on the Dawn Wall; too focused on climbing classic routes, I initially found the challenges intimidating. However, as I acclimatized, I successfully free-climbed various routes on El Capitan.
One boulder after another
Throughout my time in Yosemite, I tackled each challenge one by one, sharpening my skills and building the endurance necessary to face The Dawn Wall.
Pitches 14 and 15
As I progressed, the realities of the final pitches transformed what seemed insurmountable into attainable goals.
Shoes the key
Ultimately, the right gear, particularly climbing shoes, played a crucial role in my success, allowing me to maximize grip and precision on the smallest holds.
The skin game
Maintaining the health of my hands and fingers was equally vital, as the extensive climbing required a meticulous approach to prevent injuries.
This article first appeared on GearJunkie.
Source
explorersweb.com