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The Cultural Reckoning of Boba Tea: A Conversation on Heritage and Appropriation

Since its introduction in the United States during the 1990s, boba tea, a Taiwanese beverage characterized by its chewy tapioca pearls, has grown tremendously in popularity. Initially a local favorite within Asian communities, this drink—often referred to as bubble or pearl tea—has transitioned into a widely recognized cultural staple. Recently, even major chains like Starbucks have sought to capitalize on this trend by introducing their own versions.

Enter Quebec-based company Bobba, which markets its product as a convenient “ready-to-drink bubble tea” infused with real tea and fruit juice beads. Bobba’s founders, Sébastien Fiset and Jess Frenette, assert they undertook extensive research on the drink’s origins before launching their brand.

During a recent episode of Dragon’s Den, a show akin to Shark Tank in Canada, actor Simu Liu raised critical concerns regarding Bobba’s packaging, which he felt inadequately represented the drink’s cultural roots, thereby overshadowing its heritage.

“I would be uplifting a business that is profiting off of something that feels so dear to my cultural heritage,” Liu expressed during the October 10 broadcast.

Liu’s remarks have reignited essential discussions surrounding cultural appropriation. Critics argue that when businesses fail to acknowledge the origins of cultural products, they strip the significance and value from those traditions.

“It’s shocking that any company thinks it’s beneficial to conceal the ethnic origins of their food or drink in today’s context,” stated Jeff Yang, an Asian American culture writer and co-author of Rise: A Pop History of Asian America from the Nineties to Now. He also noted that Bobba’s target demographic of younger consumers is keenly aware of boba tea’s heritage, which is a part of its appeal.

Without proper recognition of these roots, the unique allure that has propelled boba tea to popularity risks being diminished. Brian Pham, co-founder of the nonprofit Meals for Unity, highlights the importance of cultural expressions in food, underscoring the fine line between cultural celebration and appropriation. He advocates for businesses to not only profit from cultural traditions but also to support the communities that originate them, which is crucial for fostering true inclusivity in the culinary world.

The beverage itself is steeped in a complex historical and cultural narrative. According to Jean-Paul Contreras deGuzman, a lecturer at UCLA’s Asian American Studies program, boba cafés serve as significant spaces where Asian Americans have developed new identities within a society that has historically marginalized them. He notes that the story of boba tea exemplifies a broader narrative of cross-cultural exchange that has enduringly shaped culinary trends.

However, the boba tea phenomenon is not without its controversies, including issues such as worker exploitation and the gentrification often linked to its commercialization. Further complicating the conversation around appropriation is the fact that boba tea is part of a larger pattern of culinary misappropriation within the Asian food landscape.

In one notable instance from 2013, a London-based restaurant named Mo Pho faced legal action for infringing on the name of the Vietnamese soup, pho, due to its name. Following a recent airing of the Dragon’s Den episode, a petition was initiated by Antoan Phu, demanding that Pho Holdings relinquish its trademark on the name. Phu expressed personal connections to pho being integral to his heritage and flagged concerns that such legal restrictions could hinder the Vietnamese community’s identity.

Thanks to public support, Pho Holdings agreed to surrender its trademark after 11 years, showcasing the power of community unity in protecting cultural practices.

Bobba’s response to the backlash has been slower. After acknowledging their missteps on the reality show, the company released an apology and stated they would re-evaluate their packaging to honor boba tea’s Taiwanese roots. They acknowledged a comment made during the show implying that their beverage was “healthier” than traditional boba tea—a sentiment that drew significant criticism, as it arguably perpetuates biases surrounding ethnic foods.

As the fallout continued, Taiwanese food writer Jessie YuChen criticized the notion of “improving” another culture’s cuisine, emphasizing the need for respectful representation in food marketing. Bobba, admitting to language barriers, expressed their commitment to a thoughtful reevaluation of their branding.

In the wake of the controversy, Liu urged for a constructive dialogue rather than hostility, expressing gratitude for the support he received and emphasizing the importance of understanding the nuanced dynamics of cultural appropriation versus homage.

In a show of solidarity, Taiwanese American entrepreneur Olivia Chen, co-founder of Twrl Milk Tea, highlighted efforts by companies mindful of cultural representation in their products. With a strong focus on celebrating rather than appropriating cultural traditions, they aim to connect consumers with the rich heritage of boba tea.

Ultimately, the conversation surrounding boba tea brings to light crucial themes of cultural respect and acknowledgment. As Yang succinctly stated, “Appreciate, don’t appropriate.”

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