Stockholm’s New Restaurants Embrace a More Global Flair

Photo credit: www.foodandwine.com

Contrary to some outdated culinary perceptions, Stockholm’s dining offerings extend far beyond traditional dishes like pickled weeds or moose trotter. While these were once staples of the New Nordic philosophy prevalent in the city, a notable shift has occurred. Contemporary chefs are now embracing global influences and showing a more relaxed, innovative style that reflects their culinary travels and experiences abroad.

My journey to Stockholm began 12 years ago, coming from another culinary hotspot, Melbourne, Australia. Since then, I’ve witnessed a remarkable transformation in the city’s food landscape. Although I published a cookbook celebrating Scandinavian cuisine back in 2015, many of the standout dishes in today’s Stockholm are invigoratingly non-Nordic.

A prime example is the exceptional pizza at 800 Grader, where chef Oskar Montano has skillfully harnessed his Italian roots to create a remarkable Roman-style pizza. His combination of fermented anchovy butter, lemon, and zucchini elevates the dish to new heights. Similarly, at Krümel, German Polish expatriate Kaja Hengstenberg experiments with American-style cookies, her crème brûlée cookie being a must-try, melding butter, sugar, and flour into perfect harmony.

The evolving gastronomic scene also features restaurants like Prospero, a stylish underground eatery that has significantly influenced Stockholm’s dining culture since opening in 2019. Frequented by locals and tourists alike, its innovative dishes—like yogurt ice cream with sea buckthorn—foster a loyal clientele. “We have one couple who dines here weekly,” co-owner David Arvidsson shared, highlighting its universal appeal.

At Bistro Mirabelle, around half of the patrons are regulars, drawn by the cozy atmosphere and French-inspired menu crafted by owners Viktor Sundström and David Lilja Lundin, who brought influences from London and Paris back to Stockholm. The inviting ambiance resonates with delight as guests savor dishes like pâté maison and superb sourdough, paired with an exceptional wine selection.

The ethos of sourcing local ingredients remains vibrant among many chefs. Numerous eateries still prioritize whole animal sourcing, foraging for wild ingredients, and preserving seasonal produce. At Bacchanale on Södermalm, an energetic team consistently innovates menus, reflecting the bounty of their local suppliers. One dish that stood out was a flatbread featuring zucchini and fresh cheese, complemented by pickled chanterelle mushrooms and dill flowers, encapsulating a Nordic twist on pizza bianco.

“We take cues from our suppliers,” co-owner Jonas Helgesson remarked as I enjoyed a vibrant salad made of Swedish tomatoes, tomato-water beurre blanc, sweet grapes, and figs. This creative exchange among chefs and produce fosters a dynamic culinary environment, allowing adaptation and experimentation as new ingredients arrive.

In a distinguished area home to embassies, the restaurant within the Ett Hem hotel underscores a commitment to quality sourcing. Chef Leo Frodell meticulously selects his ingredients, even preordering animals before they are born. “Understanding the proteins we will have allows us to design our dishes with spontaneity, specific to the season,” he explained. His remarkably fresh mackerel offers a memorable dining experience, including the charming Swedish adage that it should be enjoyed at lunch rather than dinner.

Frodell’s fusion of local sourcing and global flavors shows in desserts such as fig-leaf flan with Nordic berries, a delightful contradiction enhanced with Italian vinegar. The creativity spills over into other establishments as former colleagues branch out and open their own restaurants, embodying a shared mission for quality. One such place is Triton, where a well-balanced set menu emphasizes seasonal ingredients in a stylish atmosphere, perfect for relaxed dining.

Close by, Duvan Pub, managed by ex-Ett Hem sommelier Fredrik Westlund, offers a more upscale pub experience. Offering dishes such as Welsh rarebit, it caters to diners looking for quality without missing its Swedish roots. “We aim for high-quality proteins and embrace the local love for sauces,” co-owner Joakim Beurling noted with a hint of humor regarding their kitchen rhythm.

Over at Bord, culinary elegance is on display under chef Joel Aronsson, formerly of the renowned Fäviken. His inspired dishes such as langoustines with Café de Paris butter exhibit a commitment to fine dining while maintaining a welcoming air, alongside simpler fare like Swedish isterband sausage.

Stockholm’s culinary landscape is currently thriving, providing an exciting exploration for diners. The influx of tourists has notably increased, with more cruise ships arriving in the city this year. This shift hints at a growing recognition of the approachable and dynamic dining scene in Stockholm. In summary, the city is bursting with vitality and innovation, making it an ideal destination for culinary enthusiasts to explore its evolving gastronomic offerings.

Where to eat in Stockholm

Prospero

This pioneering restaurant is at the forefront of a new dining movement in Stockholm, offering an enticing and well-priced set menu.

Bistro Mirabelle

This French-inspired bistro exudes a Parisian ambiance, complemented by an impressive wine list, reflecting a growing appreciation for fine wines in the city.

800 Grader

Enjoy top-notch Roman-style pizza at any of 800 Grader’s venues, including a casual slice shop in Södermalm or more formal sit-down locations in Vasastan and Kransen.

Krümel

Visit either of the two locations in Östermalm or Södermalm to indulge in the delectable crème brûlée cookie, available for delivery to your hotel.

Bacchanale

With its menu that frequently changes based on seasonal ingredients, there’s always something new to experience at this vibrant neighborhood restaurant.

Triton

Located in Södermalm, Triton radiates a cozy atmosphere with a unique decor and offers a well-rounded set menu focused on high-quality seasonal produce.

Duvan Pub

This boutique pub on Södermalm offers hearty comfort food with a nod to English cuisine while maintaining a distinctly Swedish twist.

Bord

This intimate restaurant features a wood-fired oven and is led by Joel Aronsson, whose culinary presentation is nothing short of artistry.

Where to stay in Stockholm

Ett Hem

Ett Hem translates to “a home,” offering beautifully curated contemporary Scandinavian decor. Reservations at the hotel’s restaurant are highly recommended. Rooms from $520

Stockholm Stadshotell

This stately hotel, located in a refurbished 1870s residence, opened in early 2023 and features two restaurants, a sauna, and a charming courtyard. Stockholm Stadshotell is an excellent option for visitors. Rooms from $342

Nofo Hotel & Wine Bar

Tucked away through a courtyard, this charming boutique hotel features a stellar bar and an impressive culinary experience. Its rooms reflect a global aesthetic, providing a fantastic base for exploring Södermalm. Rooms from $102

Story Hotel Riddargatan

This art-focused hotel showcases rotating exhibitions throughout its public areas and provides great value in a central downtown location. Rooms from $150

Planning travel to Stockholm

Most highlighted restaurants are situated in Vasastan, northwest of Stockholm’s downtown, and on Södermalm to the south. The summer months tend to be quieter, as many business proprietors take holidays, resulting in some restaurant closures. It is advisable to check individual websites for hours and availability before visiting.

Source
www.foodandwine.com