Photo credit: explorersweb.com
The anticipated first ascent of the year to an 8,000-meter summit was set for Annapurna this week. However, the route has posed significant challenges due to numerous exposed crevasses on the peak, which is currently mostly devoid of snow. In a disappointing turn, the Sherpa team was forced to retreat yet again, stopping their ascent at 7,600 meters due to running out of ropes needed for safety fixes.
“Our experience on Annapurna has been extremely difficult,” Mingma G from Imagine Nepal remarked to ExplorersWeb while stationed at Base Camp. “I’ve never encountered such dire conditions on this mountain.”
This year, Imagine Nepal has been tasked with managing the logistics of fixing the climbing ropes. Their strategy typically involves swiftly establishing a secure route before climbers seek to reach the summit. As the first peak in the 8,000-meter category for the climbing season, many of the climbers as well as support staff are eager to move on to subsequent challenges.
Challenges and Requirements
Mingma G had previously expressed concerns about the route conditions when his team of eight Sherpa guides commenced their work. An unusually dry winter has left the mountain largely bare, leading to a predominantly icy terrain. While reduced avalanche risk is a positive aspect, the presence of seracs and deep crevasses has made navigation particularly hazardous.
“It required two days for us to find a safe pathway through the icefall just above Camp 3,” Mingma G explained. “We managed to reach 7,600 meters, but the team had to abandon their summit attempt due to insufficient rope.”
This marks the second instance where the rope-fixing team has exhausted their supplies while traversing through the crevassed areas.
“We plan to make another attempt, and we’ll reach the summit this time,” assured Mingma G.
However, this next effort will not be immediate. The Sherpas have returned to Base Camp, and Imagine Nepal’s customers—eight climbers from China—have opted to either fly to Pokhara for rest until a favorable weather window presents itself or have returned home.
Climbers’ Priorities Shift
Mingma G noted that these climbers have their sights set on attacking Everest in the coming month. Some have even chosen to travel back to China for several weeks while preparations for Everest are completed, as that ascent holds greater significance for them.
In contrast, other climbers from different teams are progressing with their plans, having already completed a rotation to Camp 2 and gearing up for summit attempts. Csaba Varga from Hungary has been among these climbers. After spending two nights at Camp 2, he returned to Base Camp yesterday, sharing images that illustrate the dry state of the climbing route.
View of Annapurna above Camp 1 this week. Photo: Csaba Varga
In recent times, climbers have been more prepared to allocate two months for a Himalayan expedition. However, expectations have shifted significantly towards achieving faster success, compressing timelines to three weeks or even less, especially visible in the looming Everest expeditions.
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explorersweb.com