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I’ve always considered myself knowledgeable about ragù, having grown up with the classic recipe from The Essential Classics of Italian Cooking, adapted by my father. Over the years, I developed my own variations, including a beef ragù for lasagna and a quicker pork version for weeknight meals. So when I witnessed chef Stefano Secchi prepare his unique rendition at Massara, a celebrated eatery focused on Emilia-Romagna cuisine, it forced me to rethink my understanding of this classic dish. His fresh and vibrant approach, despite requiring nearly 10 hours of cooking, expanded my perspective on ragù. Here’s what I discovered:
Rethinking Meat Choices
Secchi utilizes a blend of pork sausage and ground prosciutto in a 2:1 ratio, significantly enhancing the dish’s flavor profile. While cured meats have long been essential for boosting taste in various recipes, this combination offers a deep, rich layer of flavor that surpasses conventional methods. Simply substituting ground pork with sausage will elevate your ragù remarkably.
Maximize the Browning Process
The Maillard reaction, or the browning of meat, is crucial for unlocking robust flavors. Secchi emphasizes this by using a fish weight to compress the sausage, increasing contact with the pan. This technique can also be performed directly in the pan for an immediate impact. While a wooden spoon might not suffice, investing in a fish weight or a cast-iron grill press (which can also enhance grilled cheese sandwiches) or even a potato masher can yield great results.
Aiming for Perfectly Cooked Meat
It’s crucial to avoid overcooking the meat prior to braising, as this can lead to dryness. Secchi advocates for a method where the sausage is browned on the outside but remains rare in the center. This technique preserves moisture and fat, ensuring a more succulent final product since the meat will continue cooking in the sauce.
Deliberate Meat Preparation
Traditionally, my father favored a long cooking process that rendered ground meat into tiny, tender bits. Secchi takes this a step further by mixing the cooked meat in a stand mixer until it resembles a paste, ensuring a smoother sauce consistency. Whether you opt for a stand mixer or another tool, intentionally breaking down the meat contributes to a creamy, rich sauce in the final product.
Simplifying the Vegetables
I once believed that finely chopping vegetables was paramount for a ragù, but Secchi’s approach of blending yellow onion, shallot, scallion, and celery gives a better result. By blending these ingredients with olive oil, he creates a base that adds sweetness without distracting textures. While many are cautious about blending onions due to their strong aroma, when cooked gently and simmered with wine, this mixture forms an aromatic foundation essential for the ragù’s depth. Secchi’s trick of freezing leftover soffritto in ice cube trays can also streamline meal prep for future Italian dishes.
Patience is Key
The difference between a ragù cooked for a mere few minutes and one that simmers for hours is staggering. Secchi’s sauce cooks for an impressive 8 to 10 hours, following a thorough browning of the meat and soffritto preparation. While some may argue that the improvements in flavor plateau after several hours, the sheer transformation of a sauce throughout the day is worth experiencing. A long simmer allows ground meat to become tender and rich, mirroring the experience of braising larger cuts of meat.
Cheese and Oil are Crucial Finishing Touches
One important lesson learned is the significance of adding more Parmesan, along with olive oil and pasta cooking liquid, during the final stages of preparation, referred to as mantecatura. Though many cooks rely on butter for this step, incorporating oil, starchy water, and cheese together results in a uniquely delectable finish to the dish.
For those eager to whip up some pasta now, you might want to try a traditional ragù Bolognese, or for a lighter option, a mushroom ragù that’s quick to prepare yet full of flavor. Implementing any of these techniques can enhance your own ragù creations.
Creating a classic Bolognese does not necessarily require expensive or rare ingredients; however, it does require a commitment to patience and care in the cooking process.
View Recipe Pappardelle with Chicken Ragù, Fennel, and Peas
You’ll still experience that velvety texture in this lighter ragù, but it won’t take all day to prepare.
View Recipe Pasta With Creamy Mushroom Ragù
This vegetarian recipe provides a rich, tomato-based sauce that tastes as if it had been simmering for hours, all while being suitable for weeknight dinners.
Source
www.bonappetit.com