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The Challenge of Rakaposhi: A Peak with a History of Attempts

Standing at an impressive height of 7,788 meters, Rakaposhi in Pakistan is known for its daunting climbing conditions. The peak sees minimal climbing activity, with fewer than ten successful summits recorded, primarily due to its steep slopes, technical challenges, and the unpredictability of the weather.

Ranked as the 26th highest independent mountain globally, Rakaposhi holds the title of the 12th highest peak over 7,000 meters. Located in the Lesser Karakoram range within Gilgit-Baltistan, it lies approximately 110 kilometers north-northwest of Nanga Parbat, the closest 8,000-meter mountain.

The name Rakaposhi translates from Burushaski as “shining wall,” reflecting the mountain’s often radiant complexion, while an alternate local name, Dumani, meaning “Mother of Mist” or “Mother of Clouds,” highlights its frequent cloud coverage.

With a rise of 5,800 meters over just 11.5 kilometers from the Hunza River, Rakaposhi is particularly striking.

A Historical Overview of Exploration

The first glimpses of Rakaposhi to foreign explorers occurred in the late 19th century, starting with Martin Conway, who evaluated the southern side of the peak in 1892. Although he believed the upper sections were probably climbable, Conway warned that accessing the summit via supporting ridges posed significant risks.

In 1938, British mountaineers Michal Vyvyan and Reginald Campbell Secord approached it from the west, summiting a smaller forepeak of 5,800 meters along the northwest ridge.

Initial Climbing Attempts

The first serious attempt occurred in 1947 when Secord, together with climber Bill Tilman and two Swiss colleagues, made an effort on the southwest spur but retreated at 5,800 meters due to an imposing barrier of rock known as gendarme. Following their retreat, Tilman discovered the extensive snow-and-ice wall that the team dubbed Monk’s Head.

The 1954 climbing season attracted two notable expeditions aiming for the southwest spur. The first, led by Mathias Rebitsch, fell short at 5,200 meters due to severe weather conditions. The Cambridge University Mountaineering Club expedition mirrored the same route but halted their ascent at 6,340 meters due to deteriorating weather.

In 1956, Mike Banks led a British-American team that managed to surpass the 7,000-meter mark, reaching 7,170 meters; however, their attempts to continue higher proved unsuccessful.

“We were all much impressed by Rakaposhi,” Richard K. Irvin noted in his expedition report, emphasizing the challenging and lengthy nature of the climb, and suggesting that there was indeed a feasible route to the summit.

First Successful Ascent

The breakthrough came in 1958 when Banks returned as the leader of a British-Pakistani Forces Expedition, including renowned Scottish climber Tom Patey. The team opted for the southwest spur and set their base at 4,267 meters on May 20.

Despite relentless snowfall, blizzards, and avalanches, the climbers managed to establish multiple camps, ascending as high as 5,791 meters. On June 23, a strategic supply drop allowed Banks and Patey to prepare for their final push from a high camp at 7,315 meters.

On June 25, the duo, facing severe blizzard conditions, succeeded in reaching the summit, enduring extreme cold and experiencing frostbite. They subsequently retreated and reached base camp three days later, marking the first ascent of Rakaposhi without supplementary oxygen.

The First Repetition

In 1983, the Belgian Club Alpin Beige Expedition achieved the first repetition of the southwest spur route, topping out on August 2 after surmounting challenges on Monk’s Head. Their descent was marred by an avalanche that injured one climber seriously, highlighting the hazards inherent in climbing Rakaposhi.

Tragically, high-altitude porter Sultan Ullah Baig disappeared during a solo descent, further illustrating the risks of the mountain.

New Routes and Later Ascent Attempts

In 1979, a Polish-Pakistani team led by Ryszard Kowalewski made significant advancements by establishing a new route along the northwest ridge. Despite facing severe weather and an avalanche that initially devastated their base camp, they accomplished their goals by reaching the summit over consecutive days.

Another memorable feat occurred in 1995 when Colombian climber Anibal Pineda made a solo ascent via the northwest ridge.

In the summer of 1979, a Japanese expedition successfully summited via the notoriously challenging north spur, having previously attempted the route unsuccessfully. They completed their push under difficult circumstances, utilizing a siege-style strategy for support.

Recent Ascents

In 2019, Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima achieved a remarkable ascent of Rakaposhi’s unclimbed south face, culminating in a successful summit on July 2. Their outstanding achievement earned them the esteemed Piolet d’Or award in 2020.

The latest ascent was recorded in September 2021, involving Czech climbers Jakub Vicek and Petr Macek along with Pakistani Wajidullah Nagri. Their expedition, however, lacked the necessary permits and culminated in a helicopter rescue.

Rakaposhi’s climbing legacy is a testament to both the allure and the extreme challenges presented by one of Pakistan’s grand peaks, inspiring climbers to push their limits while respecting the mountain’s formidable nature.

Source
explorersweb.com