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The Transformative Experience of Hammams
A serene atmosphere envelops me as I enter the hammam, where groups of women are bathing while others enjoy moments of solitude. The gentle sounds of conversations weave through the air, creating a comforting backdrop of shared experiences and new friendships.
Leyla Kayhan, a Turkish historian and Harvard University fellow, elaborates on the vital social role of hammams. “Historically, these spaces served a significant communal purpose,” she shares. “In times past, when private bathrooms were a luxury, many would gather at the hammam to wash. They quickly evolved into venues not just for hygiene, but also for socializing, celebrating life’s milestones, and even conducting business transactions.”
This warm sense of belonging is reflective of the hammam’s traditional culture. Leyla notes, “These environments have always been accessible to individuals from diverse backgrounds. Upon entry, one is symbolically stripped of all societal identifiers. Yes, the wealthy might arrive with lavish towels and grooming tools, but universally, all individuals can partake without fear of judgment. This inclusive ethos remains a hallmark of the hammam experience today.”
As my cleansing begins, my attendant douses me with warm water before using a coarse mitt called a kese to exfoliate my skin. The initial prickling sensation is soon followed by a cascade of bubbles as she envelops me in foam, skillfully transitioning to a soothing massage. After this, she gently washes my hair, careful to keep soap out of my eyes. Once the process is complete, she wraps me in a soft white gown and guides me to the soğukluk, or cold room.
“This ritual involves completely surrendering to another,” explains Koza Gureli Yazgan, the Founding Director of Zeyrek Çinili Hamam. “It’s a unique experience, reminiscent of the care given by a mother or grandmother.”
At the Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam, a recent renovation project in Istanbul, owner Ergin Iren reflects on the role of these wellness rituals in modern life. “While these spaces were once essential, with most of us now having showers at home, one might wonder why we would choose to attend a bathhouse and strip down in front of others,” he muses, a smile crossing his face. “It’s because this ritual transcends mere physical cleansing—it’s an opportunity to connect with others, fostering a sense of inner reflection rather than focusing solely on outward appearances.”
As I recline in the humid soğukluk room of Zeyrek Çinili Hamam, I appreciate this sentiment. Women relax in cushioned niches nearby as my attendant returns to check on me. Despite our limited language barrier, I indicate my arms and then gesture towards my heart. She responds with a smile, mirroring my thumbs-up with a laugh and playfully asking, “You feel loved?” I nod emphatically in agreement.
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