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A Culinary Journey in the Indian Himalayas: Exploring Naar and Amaya
The March edition of Bon Appetit highlights the sunderkala, a reinterpretation of a North Indian noodle dish featured at Naar, an intimate restaurant located in the picturesque Himalayan foothills. Navigating to this 16-seat tasting menu establishment proved to be a combination of careful planning, perseverance, and a touch of fortune. In fact, it took me two attempts to finally reach the restaurant.
My initial visit was scheduled for late 2023, shortly after renowned chef Prateek Sadhu launched his ambitious culinary project in Himachal Pradesh. December’s infamous fog blankets many North Indian cities, frequently causing flight cancellations. Thus, when I received the notification of my flight’s cancellation from Hyderabad to Chandigarh, the nearest significant airport, I wasn’t particularly taken aback.
As autumn rolled around, with more favorable weather conditions, I resolved to make another attempt. This time, luck was on my side. The journey included a dizzying three-hour drive through narrow, winding roads, all while thick mist enveloped the mountains. This elevated ride offered a vivid insight into daily life in the Himalayan region: I passed through quaint one-lane villages, glimpsed roadside stands selling Maggi noodles with breathtaking views, and encountered temples and homes precariously situated on the lush hillsides.
Chef Sadhu has established his passion project within the grounds of another venture. In 2022, entrepreneur Deepak Gupta realized his dream by founding Amaya, a beautifully designed 25-acre boutique hotel conceived by the acclaimed architect Bijoy Jain. With inspiration drawn from the surrounding landscape, Gupta aimed to create a retreat that harmonized with the region’s terraced farms. The structure features 15 limestone cottages, each with ivy-covered patios and elegantly minimalistic interiors reflecting Jain’s commitment to sustainability. Personal art and furniture from Gupta’s collection adorn the space. Although staying at Amaya isn’t mandatory to dine at Naar, as the reservations team suggests nearby lodgings, the stunning infinity pool, which overlooks the undulating hills, makes it hard to consider any other option for accommodation.
Many guests at Naar find themselves planning brief trips focused on enjoying the restaurant’s culinary offerings. In addition to dinner service, Sadhu’s team has recently introduced lunch, allowing travelers to pause their journey from Chandigarh to Shimla. However, a real understanding of the motivations that continually lure Sadhu back to these mountains likely requires a longer stay at Amaya. The light in this region possesses a unique quality, transitioning from a silvery glow to golden hues as the sun plays across the sky. The atmosphere feels refreshingly pure and crisp, providing a welcome escape from the air pollution typically found in India’s crowded urban centers.
As for the dining experiences: my 15-course meal at Naar was undeniably one of the year’s highlights. However, my time at Amaya was equally delightful. Breakfast there featured some of the richest local Himalayan flavors I have ever encountered, including a steamed bao served with a savory mushroom and sorrel chutney, alongside sornu nashasta—a rice dish topped with mushrooms, chili crisp, bok choy, spring onions, and garlic. Lunch showcased a Mediterranean-inspired feast with saffron chicken kebabs that burst with flavor, complemented by the region’s potent shatta and toum. The crowning touch was the exquisite madeleines served piping hot, each bite melting in my mouth as I savored them with my cappuccino. The culinary experiences at Amaya and Naar wonderfully complement one another, weaving together stories of the Himalayan landscape.
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