The Misconceptions Surrounding Ice Wines

Photo credit: www.foodandwine.com

During the long, frigid nights of winter, ice wine producers are anything but idle. Instead, they brave the cold and the elements to harvest frozen grapes from the vines, their breath forming vaporous clouds in the frigid air as they hurriedly gather the precious fruit to create an exquisite and sweet beverage: ice wine.

“It’s one of the rarest wine styles on the planet,” remarks JJ Williams, general manager of Kiona Vineyards, a family-run vineyard nestled in the Red Mountain AVA region of Eastern Washington.

Producing ice wine is akin to a wondrous alchemical process, drawing on a unique interplay of nature and human effort.

“Unlike Tokaji or Sauternes, which depend on variables like botrytis or the warming of the wine, our approach relies purely on the natural chill of the environment,” explains Nicholas Gizuk, winemaker at Inniskillin in Ontario, Canada. “We allow Mother Nature to do the freezing, resulting in a wine that is a concentrated essence of the grapes.”

Understanding Ice Wine

The origin of ice wine can be traced back to an unexpected event. In 1794, a sudden frost in Germany prompted farmers to salvage grapes that had frozen overnight. Realizing these frozen berries could yield wine, ice wine was born.

Today, producing ice wine remains largely dependent on fortuitous weather conditions. Winemakers leave grapes on the vine long after the traditional harvest has concluded, allowing them to endure the winter chill.

When temperatures plummet to -17°F (-8°C), a critical moment arrives; the winemakers must act swiftly to pick the frozen grapes before the weather turns warm.

The freezing of the grapes results in solidified water, preserving the sugars and acids. This alchemy yields a thick, vibrant, and luscious golden juice.

Ice wine can be produced in any region where winters are cold enough to freeze grapes on the vine. While Canada remains the leading producer, notable regions also include Germany, China, as well as parts of New York, Washington State, and Michigan.

The Ice Wine Production Process

Harvesting this special wine is no easy task, often requiring winemakers to work through the night.

“The temperature must be at least -8°C for the harvest to proceed, and often it feels even colder due to wind chill,” notes Dean Stokya, winemaker at Stratus Winery in Ontario’s Niagara region.

Dean Stokya, winemaker at Stratus Winery

“It’s akin to participating in an Ironman. The lack of sleep stretched over four or five days is overwhelming, and everything must go right, without even a minor failure such as a broken press.”

— Dean Stokya, winemaker at Stratus Winery

Harvests typically commence around midnight, with winemakers working tirelessly through the night to continuously press the frozen grapes over a series of days, aiming for the ideal balance in the resultant ice wine juice.

The process of making ice wine is both labor-intensive and uncertain; warmer winters could result in grapes that do not freeze adequately.

“Being a winemaker requires a strong resolve,” states Williams. “It’s a challenging game of patience and risk management. You leave perfectly good grapes exposed to various threats in hopes that they will freeze sufficiently for harvest. Each day increases the risks of loss from rot, gravity, or wildlife.”

Indeed, crafting ice wine is often a true labor of passion.

“Financially, opting for ice wine can be a questionable decision,” asserts Gizuk, also an ice wine producer in British Columbia.

Grape Varieties in Ice Wines

Ice wines can be crafted from various grape varietals such as Vidal Blanc, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and Gewürztraminer. Gizuk utilizes a mix, including Vidal, Cabernet Franc, and Riesling.

“To me, Riesling embodies the quintessential expression of ice wine,” he shares. “Its innate acidity, combined with flavors of citrus, lime, orange peel, and pineapple, truly shines during warm growing seasons.”

Gizuk approaches each grape type uniquely; for instance, he ages Vidal ice wine in oak barrels while transforming Cabernet Franc into a sparkling ice wine.

In Washington, Williams’s team employs Chenin Blanc, a vibrant grape predominantly from the Loire Valley, strategically planted in the area that retains the coldest air, making it ideal for ice wine production.

Williams is particularly fond of Chenin Blanc for its exceptional acidity, which remains even late in the season.

“The acid is crucial for crafting well-balanced dessert wines. Without it, they can become overly syrupy or cloying. We aim for a wine that sparkles on the palate, and Chenin Blanc helps achieve that.”

Misconceptions Surrounding Ice Wine

Ice wine often faces criticism for being perceived as a mere after-dinner sweet option.

“We’ve found that ice wine attracts both newcomers and seasoned wine enthusiasts, but many intermediate drinkers avoid it altogether,” Williams explains. “Visitors to our tasting room frequently express surprise, stating, ‘I didn’t think I liked sweet wine.’”

Stokya, who produces a rosé ice wine using various grapes like Petit Verdot and Riesling, wishes for greater public awareness about the diverse styles of ice wine. “Many assume that all ice wines are the same, which couldn’t be more incorrect. Each ice wine bears its own distinct characteristics.”

JJ Williams, general manager of Kiona Vineyards

“We’ve found that ice wine appeals to wine neophytes and super wine nerds, but wine drinkers in the middle tend to skip the category on principle.

— JJ Williams, general manager of Kiona Vineyards

The selection of grape varietals significantly influences flavor, as does the temperature at which the grapes are harvested.

“The colder the temperature, the more concentrated and sweet the juice will be,” shares Stokya. “I prefer to pick the grapes as close to the -8°C mark as possible during the initial freeze, maximizing the fruit’s flavor profile. Winemakers can further influence the outcome through choices in aging or fermentation vessels, such as oak, stainless steel, or amphora.”

Gizuk aims for harvesting at -10°C to gain better control over sweetness levels.

“These techniques allow winemakers to impart their unique artistic vision on what constitutes an exemplary ice wine,” Stokya adds.

Enjoying Ice Wine

Ice wine may be considered a novelty item, making it a popular choice for gifting. However, such perceptions often lead it to be overlooked by consumers. “Many have a bottle gifted to them sitting unused in their fridge,” Gizuk notes.

It’s time to rediscover it.

“People often overlook the hidden gems aging in their wine fridges,” Gizuk points out. “Some of these bottles may be several years old and worthy of sharing with friends.”

This unique wine offers exceptional characteristics as a dessert option but also pairs harmoniously with a range of dishes.

Ice wine delights when paired with spicy foods, its sweetness providing relief from heat. It complements salty dishes like anchovies or rich items such as pâtés and foie gras beautifully.

For Williams, the combination of ice wine with cheese and roasted nuts is simply unbeatable.

“People often think to pair ice wine—a naturally rich drink—with equally rich desserts, which is understandable. However, I believe in contrasting the sweetness with elements like fat and acidity that allow the wine’s sweet profile to shine.”

When serving ice wine alongside dessert, Stokya suggests being mindful of sweetness levels. “Never pair it with a dessert that’s sweeter than the wine itself,” he advises.

Additionally, ice wine excels in cocktails.

“Ice wine can enhance various cocktails; for example, it can be a delightful component for an ice wine Martini,” says Stokya.

Introducing ice wine to others can be particularly rewarding.

“At gatherings, everyone tends to bring traditional wines like Pinot Noir or Chardonnay,” notes Gizuk. “Bringing an ice wine elevates the experience and sets you apart.”

Notable Ice Wines to Explore

Inniskillin Sparkling Cabernet Franc Ice Wine VQA ($80)

Food & Wine / Inniskillin

This effervescent ice wine crafted from Cabernet Franc is rich in flavors of cherries, strawberries, rhubarb, and dark chocolate. It strikes a perfect balance of sweetness rounded out by vibrant acidity and a lengthy finish.

Stratus Riesling Ice Wine 2023 ($28)

Food & Wine / Stratus Vineyards

Harvested in January, this Riesling ice wine embodies the signature aromas and freshness of Riesling, harmoniously combined with notes of honey and zesty tangerine, making it an excellent pairing for blue cheese or savory appetizers.

Kiona Vineyards Chenin Blanc Ice Wine ($41)

Food & Wine / Kiona Vineyards

This intensely sweet and aromatic ice wine from Kiona showcases lovely notes of apricot and pineapple, complemented by a bright acidity, a hallmark of their Chenin Blanc production.

Nk’Mip Cellars, Qwam Qwmt Icewine ($42)

Food & Wine / NK’MIP CELLARS

Created by North America’s first Indigenous-owned winery, this Riesling-based dessert wine boasts flavors of baked apple pie, honey, and stewed apricot, its silky texture making it a fantastic companion for cheese or bread.

Hosmer Riesling Ice Wine 2019 ($60)

Food & Wine / Hosmer estate winery

Although Ontario is famed for its ice wines, excellent options are available just south, in the Finger Lakes region, where Hosmer Estate Winery creates a citrus-forward ice wine from Riesling grape picked under icy conditions in November. Look for tantalizing notes of tangerine, mandarin, and ripe raspberry.

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