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Comptoir De Vie: A New Fine Dining Experience in Paris

In the realm of fine dining, Paris typically conjures images of elegance and classic cuisine, with little opportunity for deviation from established norms. Diners expect mastery in flavor, presentation, and atmosphere, making the landscape relatively predictable. However, Alex Francis and Barney O’Kane, celebrated figures in the bartending world, are redefining this experience with their innovative approach.

This dynamic duo is renowned for their work at Little Red Door, a reputable bar in the Marais that has consistently been ranked among the world’s best. Branching out from their farm-to-table cocktail ethos, Francis and O’Kane recently ventured into fine dining by launching Comptoir De Vie in the Montorgueil district this March. The name translates to “of life,” reflecting their vision of food and drink as integral to shared human experiences. Fans of Little Red Door can look forward to more from this duo, as they plan to open Bar De Vie later this year.

An Innovative Dining Concept

At Comptoir De Vie, the atmosphere invites a fresh take on the conventional fine dining experience. Designed as an incubator for creativity, the restaurant harmonizes elements such as design, sustainability, and gastronomy, all centered around the belief that dining should foster connections and tell stories.

The layout diverges from shadowy, intimate dining rooms, favoring instead a bright, open space where the kitchen is visible to diners. The layout centers on a large counter where the chefs and bartenders engage openly with guests, echoing the interactive environment of their previous cocktail setting. While there are a few cozy tables for smaller parties, the most sought-after spots are the eleven seats at the counter, providing an immersive experience with the knowledgeable team.

Building Connections Through Food

“We want guests to feel part of our world,” says O’Kane. “Having a tasting menu allows us more time to build a relationship with our guests. We envision extending this experience over time to offer more comprehensive interactions.” Currently, the restaurant offers a five-course menu (90€, including a welcome drink) complemented by an optional drinks pairing (55€, also available in a non-alcoholic version). An alternative five-step drinks experience, featuring bar snacks and desserts, is available as well for those looking for a unique tasting journey (70€).

Rather than merely presenting dishes with straightforward descriptions, the team at Comptoir De Vie engages diners in discussions about each dish and its origins. The goal is to turn the spotlight on local French producers and the stories behind their offerings, including unique details like the establishment’s commitment to sustainability by operating without ice, which they cite as being environmentally unfriendly.

The Seasonal Menu

The inaugural menu celebrated the arrival of the new season with creative aspects including an Apple Sgroppino accompanied by poached apple sorbet and a unique raw oyster seasoned with housemade black pepper oil. The meal concluded with a cacao-free chocolate truffle crafted from beer waste alongside a chicory cocktail enriched with rye and tamari.

Executive chef Adam Purcell, noted for his previous roles at Frenchie and Amass, oversees the kitchen, collaborating closely with Francis and O’Kane to ensure that all dishes align with their commitment to seasonality and sustainability. Unlike traditional tasting menus, the culinary and beverage teams at De Vie work collaboratively to frame an integrated dining experience.

“Our creative development is ongoing and mutually beneficial,” explains Purcell. “If a dish needs alteration, we collaborate to ensure the drink pairing is just as compelling. When designing the menu, our aim is to showcase the finest of French produce while minimizing waste by utilizing every part of our ingredients.”

Emphasizing Freshness

The menu at Comptoir De Vie will refresh regularly with the seasons, responding to market availability, even as diners express a desire for their beloved dishes to remain. Highlights might include an unpasteurized Parisian sake or intricately layered pommes de terre Anna served with comté sauce.