Photo credit: explorersweb.com
Noel Odell is most commonly remembered for his association with George Mallory and Andrew Irvine during their ill-fated 1924 expedition on Everest, as he was the last person to see them alive. This expedition has become a significant part of mountaineering lore, and Odell’s accounts play a crucial role in the ongoing intrigue surrounding it.
However, Odell’s contribution to exploration and climbing goes far beyond this single event. Throughout his life, he was an ardent adventurer and climber, achieving remarkable feats even into his later years, with his last ascent occurring at the age of 93.
Early Life and Geology
Born on December 25, 1890, on the Isle of Wight, Noel Odell cultivated his interest in geology during his teenage years. After attending Brighton College, he furthered his studies in geology at the Royal School of Mines.
In the early 1910s, Odell honed his climbing abilities in North Wales. By 1916, he had become a member of the Alpine Club, where he began tackling climbs in the Alps to assess his skills.
In 1919, he achieved the first ascent of the Tennis Shoe route on the Idwal Slabs in Snowdonia, Wales. Soloing this multi-pitch trad route, which rises 141 meters, he demonstrated remarkable climbing prowess with minimal equipment. As other climbers began to repeat his route, it gained its name because it requires excellent friction, reminiscent of the canvas shoes of the era, akin to traditional tennis footwear.
Experience in Spitsbergen
Odell joined the Oxford University Spitsbergen Expedition in the summer of 1921, under the leadership of ornithologist Francis Charles Robert Jourdain. The expedition aimed to study biological diversity, particularly avian life on Svalbard, and Odell contributed his geological expertise by analyzing the region’s landforms and collecting rock samples.
Despite challenges that hindered their progress on a sledding venture across the central ice cap, Odell’s resilience and determination became evident during this undertaking.
First Encounters with Irvine
Odell’s initial encounter with Andrew Irvine occurred in 1919 when both were on the ascent of Foel Grach, a peak in Wales. Irvines’s adventurous spirit caught Odell’s attention, creating a lasting impression. Their paths crossed again during the 1923 Merton College Arctic Expedition in Spitsbergen, where their shared experiences further solidified their rapport.
Recognizing Irvine’s Potential
Throughout the 1923 expedition, Odell observed Irvine’s exceptional capabilities and resilience. Inspired by Irvine’s abilities, Odell was instrumental in recommending him for the 1924 Everest expedition despite Irvine’s relative inexperience at high altitudes.
The 1924 Everest Expedition
As the oxygen officer for the British expedition to Everest, Odell played a vital supporting role when Mallory and Irvine made their historical attempt. On June 8, while climbing near Camp VI at an altitude of around 7,925 meters, Odell caught a glimpse of what he believed to be Mallory and Irvine ascending the ridge, marking the last confirmed sighting of the pair before their disappearance.
During the expedition, Odell spent eleven nights above 7,000 meters without the aid of supplemental oxygen, making valiant efforts to locate his colleagues, even climbing above 8,200 meters multiple times. His discoveries included finding limestone with fossils around 7,770 meters, providing evidence of geological processes that suggested Everest was once part of an ancient seafloor.
Academic and Climbing Achievements
From 1928 to 1930, Odell served as a geology instructor at Harvard University, inspiring the founding of the Harvard Mountaineering Club during his tenure. Notably, he climbed the Odell Gully in Huntington Ravine of Mount Washington, which later bore his name.
Odell’s endeavors continued into Canada where, alongside C.G. Crawford and Terris Moore, he accomplished the first ascent of Mount Robson’s challenging south-southwest ridge in 1930.
Explorations in Labrador and Greenland
In 1931, he took part in an expedition to northern Labrador, where he achieved several first ascents in the Torngat Mountains. Later, in 1933, Odell further expanded his climbing repertoire during a scientific expedition to Northeast Greenland, making ten first ascents and contributing significantly to the expedition’s findings.
The Ascent of Nanda Devi
Odell’s notable Himalayan expedition was to Nanda Devi, an esteemed peak in India, which remained unclimbed until the summer of 1936 when Odell partnered with Bill Tilman to successfully summit via the southwest ridge. This ascent was particularly significant, as Nanda Devi was recognized as the highest mountain climbed until the ascent of Annapurna I in 1950.
Mount Vancouver and Later Life
Odell’s climbing endeavours shifted towards North America from the late 1940s through the 1950s, which included the first ascent of Mount Vancouver in 1949, along with other geological explorations. Throughout his academic career, he remained an active climber, even scaling peaks in New Zealand’s Southern Alps during his professorship.
A Legacy of Modesty
Odell was a member of several prominent mountaineering clubs, including the Alpine Club, where he was elected vice president in 1945. Despite his substantial achievements, he remained modest about his contributions, frequently showing more interest in others’ experiences rather than his own.
Described as a gentleman of considerable character and generosity, Odell left a lasting impression on his peers and the climbing community. His final excursion took place when he was 93, on the 125th anniversary of the Swiss Alpine Club, and just days before his passing in 1987, he attended a memorial event, showcasing his lifelong dedication to climbing and exploration.
Source
explorersweb.com