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Panama’s Gardi Sugdub Faces Climate Crisis: A Community’s Relocation

Rising sea levels pose an existential threat to the island of Gardi Sugdub, with predictions indicating that it may become uninhabitable by 2050. Delfino Davies, a local resident, embodies the spirit of resilience as he reflects on this looming reality. “If the island sinks, I will sink with it,” he states, unwaveringly optimistic.

The atmosphere in the small museum he manages, documenting the Guna community’s life, is marked by an unsettling quiet. “Before, you could hear children shouting… music everywhere, neighbors arguing,” he reminisces. Now, however, the sounds of life have faded as many have left.

The Guna community was the first in Panama to face relocation due to climate change, with government officials acknowledging their “imminent risk” from rising seas. Most families vacated their makeshift wooden and tin homes last June, moving to orderly prefabricated houses on the mainland. The relocation process has sparked both support and controversy within the community.

While some view the resettling as a pioneering model for other vulnerable communities, others remain in Gardi Sugdub. “My father, my brother, my sisters-in-law and my friends are gone,” shares Delfino. He explains how the children who remain are left sorrowful, yearning for their departed friends.

About 1,000 individuals abandoned the island, yet around 100 chose to stay. The reasons vary; some found there wasn’t enough space in the new settlement, while others, including Delfino, are hesitant to accept climate change as an imminent threat. He expresses a profound connection to the ocean, emphasizing that losing traditional ties means losing part of one’s identity.

The Guna have a rich history on Gardi Sugdub, originating from the 19th Century when they migrated from the mainland to escape colonial hardships. Known for their vibrant molas, or colorful textile art, the Guna currently inhabit over 40 islands, but experts, such as Steve Paton from the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute, warn that most could be submerged by century’s end as climate change accelerates.

With each passing rainy season, the reality of rising tides becomes increasingly apparent. “Every year, we saw the tides were higher,” Magdalena Martínez recalls. Despite some residents feeling overcrowded, alarming flooding events weighed heavily on her mind, leading to a collective decision that it was time to leave.

As they transitioned to Isberyala, the new settlement just a short boat trip away, residents like Magdalena found themselves in a markedly different environment. The new houses boast spaces for gardening—an opportunity for residents to reconnect with agriculture that was often sidelined on the compact island.

Isberyala has been funded by $15 million from the Panamanian government, supplemented by support from the Inter-American Development Bank. Yet, the transition hasn’t come without challenges. Leaders, such as Tito López, assert that their cultural identity remains intact despite the change in scenery. “As long as the hammock keeps its place in Guna culture, the heart of the Guna people will be alive,” he states while reflecting on cultural practices surrounding death and community.

In the new school, education continues with a focus on preserving Guna culture through traditional music and dances. Although conditions have improved—like the availability of electricity—there remain significant gaps in essential services like healthcare. Residents wait for a promised hospital, with authorities citing funding shortages as a barrier to progress.

Despite the challenges, the community appears to find solace in building a new life together. Young residents embrace the larger space for recreation, while others carry their memories of Gardi Sugdub with them. Magdalena’s efforts to teach her granddaughter how to create molas symbolizes a hope for continuity amidst change.

As day turns to evening, new routines are established. Children can be heard playing sports, asserting a newfound sense of freedom. “I prefer this place to the island because we have more space to play,” remarks Jerson, a young boy. Yet, for many, the heartache of displacement remains palpable, as expressed by Magdalena: “I wish we were all here.”

The story of Gardi Sugdub serves as a poignant reminder of the urgency of climate adaptation and the profound impact such changes have on communities and cultural identity. As experts and locals alike stress, understanding these early cases of environmental displacement is critical to shaping effective responses to climate-induced challenges worldwide.

Source
www.bbc.com