Photo credit: www.cntraveler.com
Tortillas hold a significant place in the culinary landscape of Mexico, often celebrated with a reverence akin to a cultural cornerstone. Locally referred to as “Vitamina T,” these versatile staples form the basis of a diverse range of dishes, including tacos, tlayudas, tostadas, and tetelas, readily available throughout the country. Yet, for every popular taquería or tortería, one can also find nearby pizzerias serving up an equally beloved culinary item: pizza, adorned with a plethora of toppings.
Though it traces its origins back to Naples centuries ago, pizza has firmly entrenched itself in the everyday diet of Mexicans for decades. The arrival of Pizza Hut in 1958 marked the beginning of this trend, followed by the establishment of Giuseppis, the first Mexican-owned pizza chain, in Tijuana a decade later. Personally, as a child of Mexican immigrants, I have enjoyed pizza during my visits to Mexico just as much as traditional offerings. However, my pizza experiences in the ’90s and early 2000s often included cheese with a distinctive tang, pillowy dough, basic toppings, and, quite notably, the peculiar practice of drenching slices in ketchup.
Recently, the pizza scene in Mexico has seen a noteworthy transformation, a shift that began before the pandemic and has intensified in the last few years. A new wave of pizzaiolos is redefining what pizza can be in Mexico City. Creative innovations are appearing on menus, such as pizzas de chilaquiles, which substitute traditional tomato sauce with green salsa and are topped with ingredients typical of the beloved fried tortilla dish. Another example is the flor de calabaza pizza, which incorporates squash blossoms, a signature of Oaxacan cuisine, showcasing the evolving identity of “Mexican pizza.”
“Mexico is a bread-loving country, so we already have our ways with dough,” explains Tanya Barragan, the owner and head chef at the recently launched Prema. She notes that since the pandemic, there has been a remarkable surge in interest for artisanal pizzas. In Mexico City, pizza ranks as the second-most consumed food, and with the city’s vast array of dining options, it has become essential for pizzerias to innovate and differentiate themselves. “If you’re going to make pizza, you have to do it extremely well,” she asserts.
Barragan has been at the forefront of this pizza renaissance for nearly a decade, having honed her skills in various establishments. Her journey includes time spent at Prosecco and Panadería Rosetta, both of which contributed to her expertise in dough preparation. In 2018, she was invited to help launch Pizza Felix, now renowned as one of the city’s trendiest pizza venues. Located on Calle Álvaro Obregón in the vibrant Roma Norte district, Felix transformed from a laid-back bar and lounge into a highly sought-after pizzeria, with Barragan crafting the entire pizza menu from the ground up.
After her success at Felix, Barragan opened Prema in Juaréz in February. This new establishment focuses on locally sourced ingredients, secured from the world’s largest wholesale food market, where fresh Mexican produce is delivered daily. A standout is the Amatripizza, a delicious blend of house-made tomato sauce, herbs, garlic, pepperoncini, pecorino cheese, and thick slices of guanciale, a rich, aged pork jowl. Baked in a volcanic stone oven, the Roman-style pizzas at Prema are on par with the best offerings found in New York City or San Francisco, showcasing what has recently become a culinary rarity in Mexico City.
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www.cntraveler.com