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Nestled along Highway 101 on the Oregon Coast stands a notable sight: a towering 30-foot fiberglass corn dog, complete with a bright zigzag of mustard, overseeing a quaint hot dog shack. On a bustling Saturday in May, this stand in Rockaway Beach draws in a crowd of tourists, many adorned in casual footwear and caps, who gather at the picnic tables outside. Children eagerly climb onto a mechanical corn dog placed at the entrance, excitedly pretending to ride.
As visitors shuffle through the restaurant’s black-and-white tiled floors, they are greeted by a whimsical display of merchandise, featuring shirts emblazoned with slogans like “I rode the corndog” and “You can’t beat our corndogs.” Others find a seat near the window, indulging in golden cornmeal-dipped hot dogs paired with pickles and cheese on a bed of Tater Tots. Behind the counter, staff expertly dip all-beef hot dogs and sausages into a batter before plunging them into a fryer until they emerge crispy and golden brown, serving up a delicious treat with a soft, fluffy texture.
When discussing corn dogs, the Original Pronto Pup often emerges as one of America’s earliest variations, though the differences between it and traditional corn dogs are significant. Both consist of sausages or hot dogs coated in a batter and fried to perfection, but die-hard fans point out that Pronto Pups lack the pronounced sweetness characteristic of the Texas-style corn dogs commonly found at fairs. The unique Pronto Pup batter, a savory mix of cornmeal, wheat flour, and rice flour, contains less sugar compared to typical corn dog recipes—6 grams of sugar in a beef corn dog from Hot Dog on a Stick versus about 3 grams in a Pronto Pup. This difference in composition results in a notably lighter and crisp exterior.
The Pronto Pup stand in Rockaway Beach sold an impressive 29,946 original Pronto Pups in 2023 alone, alongside various other versions like Louisiana spicy and smoked sausage. However, the allure of Pronto Pups extends far beyond Oregon’s coastal region. Since the 1940s, these tasty treats have graced fairs and festivals across the United States, from Memphis to Idaho and Minnesota.
Despite their national presence, many Oregonians may remain unaware of Pronto Pups’ cultural significance. Unlike iconic regional dishes such as the cheesesteak in Philadelphia or the po’ boy in New Orleans, Pronto Pups have yet to gain widespread recognition in their home state. In contrast, Minnesotans typically have fond memories associated with Pronto Pups. Vendor Gregg Karnis reports that his family-run stand at the Minnesota State Fair sells between 34 and 36 tons of hot dogs over the fair’s twelve days. The Karnis family has been selling Pronto Pups for 58 years, tracing their roots back to Jack Karnis, who introduced the first Pronto Pup franchise east of the Rockies in Chicago in the early 1940s.
The question arises: how did the Pronto Pup, born in Oregon, become a celebrated staple in Minnesota, while its original state remains relatively indifferent?
Pinpointing the exact origin of the corn dog can be complex. While cornmeal-wrapped hot dogs have roots in German culinary traditions, particularly in Texas, the iconic corn dog as we know it was not readily associated with a stick until much later. The Krusty Korn Sausage Pan, patented in the early 20th century, facilitated a method for baking cornbread-wrapped sausages at home. However, the development of a deep frying technique came in the late 1920s, with Stanley Jenkins filing a patent for an invention that allowed cooking food on a stick, although Jenkins never commercialized his patent. Historical accounts suggest that references to a “corn dog” emerged in the late 1930s at a Dallas restaurant, although the specifics remain elusive.
The Pronto Pup itself originated in 1939 when George and Versa Boyington, operating a hot dog stand on the Oregon Coast, sought an innovative solution after a rainstorm ruined their hot dog buns. Out of necessity, they experimented and refined their unique batter over two years, eventually serving their first Pronto Pup in Portland in 1941. The following year, they sold 15,000 of these delectable creations at the Pacific International Livestock Exposition, a full year before Fletcher’s introduced the “corny dog” at the Texas State Fair.
David Sulmonetti grew up immersed in the Pronto Pup tradition, having inherited the brand from his father and uncle, who purchased it in 1950. Sulmonetti provides valuable insight, recalling the enjoyment of Pronto Pups at family outings and festivals. He emphasizes that a commitment to quality is paramount among vendors: “They use a better hot dog, they mix the batter right, they don’t overcook it, and they serve it hot.”
Unlike typical fast-food franchises, Pronto Pup operates more like a brand than a chain. The Pronto Pup company provides a batter mix to vendors, allowing them creative freedom in how they present their offerings. For instance, the Rockaway Beach location isn’t technically a franchise but operates under the Pronto Pup name due to its exclusive use of the company’s batter. The Karnis family has even created their own hot dog recipe specifically for their Pronto Pups.
The Karnis family’s long-standing presence at the state fair has significantly contributed to Pronto Pup’s popularity; they introduced the treat to the Minnesota State Fair in 1947, quickly captivating visitors. “There was nothing like it at the time,” Karnis reflects, noting how the response was immediate and enthusiastic.
The Minnesota State Fair ranks as the second largest in the United States, attracting over 2 million visitors each year, second only to Texas. This event has cultivated a devoted following, as festival-goers often embrace the tradition of eating Pronto Pups. Sulmonetti remarks, “It’s a multi-generational thing… part of going to the fair is having a Pronto Pup.”
In contrast, Oregon lacks the robust state fair culture of regions like Minnesota. The Oregon State Fair, for instance, saw attendance of only around 346,000 in 2022. Moreover, not all vendors in Oregon identify their offerings as Pronto Pups, with numerous hot dog stands referring to their products simply as corn dogs—a sentiment that frustrates Sulmonetti.
Pronto Pup is not the only Pacific Northwest culinary creation to find fame elsewhere. In the 1950s, F. Nephi Grigg invented Tater Tots in Ontario, Oregon, capitalizing on potato scraps from Ore-Ida. Though Tater Tots are popular in Oregon, they are more commonly associated with Midwest cuisine. Furthermore, classic dishes like tuna noodle casserole can trace their roots back to Oregon, yet find greater acknowledgment in other regional cuisines.
Heather Arndt Anderson, a food writer, sheds light on why Pacific Northwestern foods often gain recognition in the Midwest. She describes Oregon as a magnet for creative thinkers and innovators: “This is the region of the country where the most fringe ideas tend to take root.”
Despite the eclectic and ever-evolving culinary landscape, the origins of dishes like the Pronto Pup often remain obscured. As a state with a dynamic and transient population, Oregon experiences challenges in fostering a strong connection to its food classics. As of 2018, less than half of Oregonians were born in the state, contrasted with a higher retention rate among Minnesotans. This disparity can contribute to Oregon’s struggles to commemorate its regional food heritage.
Ironically, the very nature of Oregon’s identity—constantly shifting due to immigration and population changes—has been a consistent thread throughout its history. From the early fur trade to the timber industry, the flow of diverse populations has created a rich tapestry, but it has also rendered it difficult to sustain multi-generational connections to local foods. Anderson highlights the importance of Indigenous foodways, recognizing that items like salmon and huckleberries play more significant roles in defining the state’s culinary identity than specific fried foods or snacks.
Indigenous foodways, combined with the state’s agricultural diversity, have carved a distinctive niche in Oregon’s culinary culture. Residents often celebrate local produce, with iconic items such as marionberries, hazelnuts, and seafood taking center stage. For many, this connection to the land remains paramount, even as they experience the ongoing influx of new residents attracted by the state’s abundant resources.
Nonetheless, those who cherish the Pronto Pup—including both long-time Oregonians and newer arrivals—are drawn to its humble beginnings. Many visitors make a point of visiting the original stand, often arriving early on Saturdays just to kick off their weekend with a Pronto Pup. Diane Langer, the owner of the Rockaway Beach location, recalls how numerous tourists from Minnesota, Idaho, and Florida make the pilgrimage to the beloved hot dog stand, despite her own roots in Washington State.
As the identity of Oregon continues to evolve, newcomers inevitably bring their own traditions, including the fondness for the Pronto Pup.
“When I’m out working at different events, I’ll run into people from Idaho who know Pronto Pups from Idaho, or Michigan, or the Memphis area,” Sulmonetti reflects. “People love nostalgia, you know?”
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pdx.eater.com