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The Story Behind Julie Reiner’s Gin Blossom Cocktail

Photo credit: www.foodandwine.com

Today, classic cocktails are a staple in American mixology, but the revival began in earnest in 2008 with the publication of the Gin Blossom recipe by Food & Wine. A key figure in this resurgence was Julie Reiner, a New York bar owner and author, who transformed the drinking landscape by emphasizing quality ingredients over the use of bottled mixers that had dominated the scene for too long.

Originating from Hawaii, Reiner’s early experiences of gathering fresh fruit for her parents’ social gatherings instilled in her a strong appreciation for top-tier ingredients. Her bartending journey took off at San Francisco’s Red Room in the 1990s. After relocating to New York with her spouse and business partner, Susan Federoff, Reiner quickly garnered acclaim from industry veterans like Dale DeGroff, who was impressed by her use of fresh juice at the West Village’s C3 bar.

In 2003, Reiner opened Flatiron Lounge, which rapidly became popular due to its Art Deco atmosphere and cocktails inspired by 19th-century recipes. While immersing herself in vintage mixology texts, Reiner discovered a wealth of old recipes that called for now-obscured ingredients.

While preparing to unveil her new venture, Clover Club, with an emphasis on homemade tinctures, she engaged in a discussion with Eric Seed, the founder of Haus Alpenz. He asked her to identify any discontinued bar products she desired. This conversation sparked a search for classic ingredients often referenced in cocktail literature, particularly focusing on varieties of apricot brandy.

Julie Reiner

I wanted to create a martini that was approachable for people who aren’t used to martinis.

— Julie Reiner

Seed successfully sourced apricot brandies, particularly from Austrian producer Günter Purkhart, whose offerings are known for their exceptional smoothness and fragrance. This discovery provided Reiner with the inspiration she needed for her Clover Club menu. “I thrive when tied to a specific flavor,” she reflected, working to design modern classics like a martini and a Manhattan variation.

The Gin Blossom, modeled after the classic 50/50 martini, features equal parts gin and complementary ingredients: apricot liqueur and blanc vermouth. Reiner aimed to create a martini that was accessible to those unfamiliar with traditional varieties. The addition of sweet vermouth softens the drink, while the apricot eau-de-vie introduces a fruity dimension.

The eau-de-vie brings a clean, intense apricot aroma, which requires careful selection of gin to avoid overpowering subtle notes. Reiner opted for citrus-forward Plymouth gin, creating what she refers to as “a martini for the masses.” Unlike many cocktails of that time, which leaned heavily into bold flavors, Reiner’s approach emphasized delicacy and balance. The drink is meticulously stirred for 30 seconds over ice prior to being served in a Nick and Nora glass, accompanied by a sidecar of the same cocktail for refills.

Designed for broad appeal, the Gin Blossom quickly became a staple on the menu. Reiner notes, “It hasn’t ever come off the menu,” and its popularity has been well-documented. Despite the acclaim, some interpretations have strayed from the original recipe, including a notable 2008 F&W article that incorrectly suggested a lemon twist instead of the crucial orange twist, which enhances the drink’s overall profile.

When asked if she would change anything about the Gin Blossom, Reiner expresses contentment with the cocktail’s original formulation. Since its introduction, she has continued to expand her ventures, establishing venues like The Saloon adjacent to Clover Club and reviving the celebrated Milady’s bar from the 1990s.

The Gin Blossom remains exclusive to Clover Club, as noted by Reiner, who considers it a hallmark of a creative turning point in American mixology. “The essence of classic cocktails lies in their mixture of known components and the creativity we exercised where knowledge fell short,” reflects Dyer, who recalls meticulously crafting countless Gin Blossoms at Clover Club.

The Gin Blossom stands as a testament to successful innovation in mixology, echoing both Reiner’s professional achievements and her personal connections. As she enthusiastically declares, “It is my wife’s favorite drink in the whole world.”

Source
www.foodandwine.com

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