Photo credit: ny.eater.com
Located along Tonnelle Avenue in Jersey City, a bustling thoroughfare teeming with traffic, stands a remarkable establishment known as the White Mana Diner. This distinctive circular building, topped with a vibrant red crown, serves as a beacon amidst the surrounding industrial landscape that includes a closed auto repair shop and a liquor store. The diner, originally built for the 1939 World’s Fair, has become an enduring symbol of nostalgia and culinary tradition.
Constructed to demonstrate innovative cooking techniques, the diner has roots that predate the founding of McDonald’s. Acquired by Louis Bridges and moved to its current Jersey City location in 1946, the White Mana has maintained its original appeal, thanks largely to the stewardship of Mario Costa, its longtime owner.
Mario Costa started working at the diner as a young teenager in 1972, navigating the bustling environment that often included figures from the local mob. By 1979, he became the proprietor. Now recognized for his slick hair and unlit cigar, Costa has expanded his influence beyond the diner to own numerous properties on the block, including a boxing gym renowned for training champions.
Despite his significant local presence and reputation, Costa remains approachable, often seen mopping the floor. Residents and local celebrities respectfully refer to him as the “Godfather,” acknowledging his positive impact amid the surrounding community.
On a Friday evening in November, I approached White Mana, drawn by the aroma of grilled onions wafting through the air. The menu featured classic items, with papers taped to the walls detailing upcoming film shoots, including one for A Complete Unknown, which featured scenes filmed at the diner.
Inside, the ambiance was lively yet serene, with patrons quietly enjoying their meals. The cook, fiercely engaged at the griddle, prepared burgers with precision while juggled phone calls, giving the place an unmistakable sense of continuity.
As I savored my meal—an affordable spread of burgers and fries—I learned that Costa was busy behind the scenes, supporting boxer Mike Tyson ahead of an upcoming match. The diner’s fast-paced operations ensured each burger was fresh and perfectly crafted, attracting a steady stream of local diners.
After consuming six of the signature sliders, I ventured down Tonnelle Avenue toward Ringside Lounge, where a vibrant birthday celebration was underway. Music pulsed from within, and the atmosphere was electric.
Inside Ringside, the decor blended boxing memorabilia with a lively bar scene. Patrons celebrated, drank colorful cocktails, and engaged in animated conversations, creating a palpable sense of community. Many spoke fondly of Costa, sharing personal stories that illustrated his supportive nature and the bond he cultivated with the neighborhood.
Regulars recounted how Costa had been a constant source of stability in their lives, often attending important events and acting as a father figure to many in the area.
The Mana, while a culinary landmark, serves as a historical center for the community, while Ringside is the social heart where relationships blossom and memories are forged.
My next encounter with Costa took place at a booth in the diner. Sporting his trademark cigar, he welcomed me and shared some insights about the establishment’s quirky history, including the true origins of the name “sliders.” He was joined by friends who reminisced about their connections to the diner and its evolution over the years.
Costa demonstrated his passion for culinary creativity by ordering his burgers with unique modifications, engaging in lively discussions about local lore, and swapping stories that reflected the deep-rooted connections among the diner’s patrons.
Our interaction continued as we walked through the neighborhood, highlighting Costa’s unwavering influence as he moved effortlessly between his various ventures, ensuring each location felt his presence.
In the mid-1980s, Costa established the boxing gym to provide local youth a safe space, not for profit, but to nurture talent and foster community ties. He has witnessed the comings and goings of several boxing legends at the gym, which he facilitated for up-and-coming fighters.
During our conversations at Ringside Lounge, Costa discussed his recent adventures, including pheasant hunting, while showcasing his knack for hospitality with an array of dishes.
Inspired by a childhood spent in Murtosa, Portugal, Mario embraced fishing and hunting as a necessity, experiences that shaped his resilience and work ethic. After relocating to Newark and eventually Jersey City, Costa established himself as a staple in the community through his hard work and commitment to inclusive business practices.
His rise to prominence is a testament to not only his culinary skills but also his ability to foster acceptance and camaraderie among diverse groups. By refusing to participate in divisive practices and embracing local culture, he turned Ringside into a melting pot of unity.
The essence of Costa’s legacy lies in his dedication to the community. Ringside Lounge operates as an inclusive gathering space that caters to everyone, offering a welcoming environment where cultural exchanges thrive.
Amidst the revitalization of the area, Costa’s story illustrates the importance of perseverance and commitment to one’s roots, as he reflects on the tumultuous history of his neighborhood and the growth that has emerged from it.
As the bar grew lively once more, local references buzzed around the room, highlighting its continued relevance as a cultural hotspot, blending music, food, and community spirit.
A regular visitor, accompanied by family, shared encounters that spoke volumes of the transformative power of accountability and mentorship that Costa embodies.
The pigeons on the roof, a part of Tyson’s rich history, symbolize the ties between the boxer and the community that Costa has nurtured. While the diner attracts food lovers, these pigeons tell tales of bonding and perseverance in the boxing world.
The delightful culinary spread served that evening was further amplified by the companionship of Costa. He possesses a genuine appreciation for the authenticity of his clientele and their shared cultural foundation.
On the rooftop, Costa shared candid moments with the pigeons—reminding us that even in the hustle and bustle of urban life, true wealth comes from meaningful connections and the joy of shared experiences.
Mario Costa may not have a traditional family, but he has cultivated a large chosen family, ensuring that his legacy as a loving mentor and steadfast fixture in the community remains strong, transcending the notion of wealth as purely financial. “I could have a mansion, but this is my house,” he asserts, embodying the spirit of Jersey City where relationships and resilience thrive.
Source
ny.eater.com