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In the United States, consuming black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day is believed to usher in good luck for the upcoming year. However, this custom has deeper roots, reflecting a family tradition that honors the historical significance of this legume across African and American cultures.
As a starting point, it’s essential to prepare the beans by soaking them ahead of time, as many cooks recommend.
The Significance of Black-Eyed Peas on New Year’s
Chef Christopher “Lucke” Bell, known for his work at Atlanta’s renowned global soul food restaurant, “Oreatha’s At The Point,” emphasizes his mother’s reliance on dried black-eyed peas over canned ones, stating, “You would have to soak them overnight first.” He fondly recalls their savory taste served over rice, a staple in his family’s New Year celebrations while growing up in Chicago.
Bell notes, “The black-eyed peas symbolize coins, with the intent of attracting good fortune. Our tradition is to celebrate extravagantly as we welcome the New Year, hoping to carry that abundance forward.”
Adrian Miller, a soul food historian and award-winning author, shares that he has participated in this tradition since childhood. He explains the symbolic nature of black-eyed peas as coins and greens representing cash, highlighting his family’s southern roots despite growing up in the suburbs of Denver. “After 50 years of practicing this, my experiences with prosperity are varied,” Miller reflects.
Historical Origins of the New Year Tradition
Miller points out that numerous cultures have special foods for significant days. He asserts that the act of consuming specific dishes on New Year’s Day serves as a vital link to culinary traditions that have endured over a century. Some interpretations suggest that this tradition may be more about honoring historical legacies than merely inviting future prosperity.
Historically, black-eyed peas were widely used to provision enslaved Africans on ships during the transatlantic journey. According to Miller, these peas were often part of the daily meals for enslaved individuals, including a dish now commonly known as Hoppin’ John made of black-eyed peas and rice.
Miller adds, “Many people feel a profound sense of connection to the past, and this tradition encourages them to engage with that history, especially given the struggles faced by African Americans in this country.”
The tradition also finds roots in the celebrations of December 31, 1862, known as Watch Night, when African Americans gathered to await the enactment of the Emancipation Proclamation. Today, it is common for religious services held on this night to conclude with a meal featuring Hoppin’ John and collard greens.
Chef Sheri L. Raleigh, author of “Gifts from the Ancestors, Vol. One, Okra and Tomatoes,” describes black-eyed peas as “emancipation food,” which supported many enslaved individuals in their pursuit of freedom during difficult times. She emphasizes that the New Year’s tradition serves as a moment of reverence for those who came before us.
Raleigh notes, “This custom transcends regional boundaries, inviting those with Southern roots and heritage from states like Louisiana and Mississippi, even in places like Chicago and Philadelphia, to partake in this tradition.”
The Popularity of Black-Eyed Peas on New Year’s
While the exact number of participants in this New Year’s tradition is uncertain, the consumption of black-eyed peas spans many communities. Raleigh’s research shows that in northern Brazil, similar traditions related to black-eyed peas also symbolize prosperity, illustrating a shared cultural history stemming from the African diaspora.
Raleigh exchanges recipes with Sandra Rocha Evanoff, who draws her heritage from Bahia, Brazil. Although Evanoff typically opts for lentils for good fortune on New Year’s, she acknowledges the importance of black-eyed peas in her cultural identity. She highlights how Acarajé, a fritter made with black-eyed peas that originated from Nigerian traditions, was historically prepared and sold by enslaved women as a means of gaining financial independence.
Timing the Tradition: New Year’s Eve or New Year’s Day?
The flexible nature of this tradition also extends to the timing of its observance. While Adrian Miller usually enjoys black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day, Chef Bell’s family tends to celebrate with a seafood feast on New Year’s Eve featuring the beans and rice. Chef Sheri L. Raleigh expresses a more casual approach to the timings, noting a lack of superstition surrounding the exact date but admits that the customs are ingrained in her practices.
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