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Exploring the Culinary Heritage of Haleem

Why It Works

Using pelted cracked wheat berries simplifies the cooking process while still preserving the dish’s authentic flavor and texture. By processing the cooked cracked wheat berries in a food processor until smooth and then straining through a fine mesh sieve, the velvety consistency characteristic of haleem is achieved. The inclusion of a handheld mixer in the final cooking stage helps create the traditional elastic and stretchy porridge that has made this dish beloved.

Haleem is a dish deeply rooted in Persian culinary culture. Typically made from a blend of cereal grains—often wheat or barley—and shredded meat, it has proven to be a hearty, nourishing meal. Its widespread appeal has made it a staple during Ramadan, served before dawn and after sunset, while also being enjoyed year-round within the Persian diaspora.

In Western culinary terms, haleem can be likened to a thick porridge. The various preparations of haleem usually derive their names from their primary ingredients, with the most notable version made from wheat berries and lamb referred to simply as haleem.

The origins of haleem date back to the 10th century, where it was sold by specialists in dedicated cookery shops primarily as a warming breakfast during winter. Traditionally garnished with sugar and powdered cinnamon, it combined both savory and sweet elements. In earlier centuries, making haleem required extensive preparation and specialized tools to achieve the desired texture. Today, it remains a common dish in Iran and neighboring regions, enjoyed for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Origins of Haleem

Although various accounts detail the origins of haleem, they generally trace it back to the regions encompassing modern-day Iran and Afghanistan before spreading to the broader Middle East, Central Asia, Caucasus, and India. Some narratives attribute the dish to the revered Kiyāniān dynasty mentioned in Persian folklore, while others link it to King Khosrow I from the Sassanian dynasty in the 6th century.

After the Islamic conquest of Persia in the 7th century, haleem continued to thrive and was referenced as a favored dish of the Prophet Mohammad in various culinary literature. The earliest known recipe for haleem appears in a 10th-century Arabic cookbook that praises the Persian Sassanid empire for its creation. By the 13th century, multiple variations of haleem emerged, including rice and pistachio versions, and were documented in medieval cookbooks.

A Dish with Many Names

In contemporary Persian, haleem can be spelled as هلیم or حلیم, both pronounced “haleem.” The spelling often varies with historical cookbooks favoring one over the other, and prior to the 20th century, a different term, harriseh, was commonly used. Regions such as southern Iran and Arabic-speaking countries still recognize this name, paralleling similar dishes found in Armenia known as harissa—distinct from the spicy North African sauce of the same name. Haleem is also prominent in Afghanistan and certain regions of India, where it may be referred to as daleem, particularly amid some Muslim communities.

Haleem in Religious and Cultural Settings

Across various countries, especially in the context of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, haleem sees a surge in popularity. It serves as an ideal high-energy dish for the pre-dawn meal, known as sahari, and for breaking the fast, known as iftar. On Āshurā, which marks the martyrdom of the Prophet Muhammad’s grandson, Shi’ite Muslims prepare copious amounts of haleem to distribute as alms.

Beyond Muslims, haleem holds significance for some Persianate Jewish families during Shabbat, while Christians in Iran and neighboring regions serve it on Assumption Day. Zoroastrians also incorporate haleem into their rituals, particularly on the anniversary of a family member’s passing.

Haleem’s Historical Preparation

Historically, preparing haleem was labor-intensive and required significant time. This demand led to the rise of specialized commercial shops dedicated to cooking haleem, a practice that began in Iran and spread to other regions, especially India and Afghanistan, where shops in Hyderabad have gained international acclaim.

Traditionally, preparing haleem was an overnight endeavor, with wheat berries and lamb cooked separately. Soaked wheat would be made into a thick syrup called “sheereh-e-gandom,” while bone-in lamb was cooked until tender, then shredded and combined with the wheat syrup. This mixture was stirred continuously throughout the night, creating the elastic texture that characterizes haleem. Today, whilst the traditional methods remain in spirit, they can be adapted for modern home kitchens to save time.

Why This Recipe Calls for Cracked Wheat

The quality of the wheat is crucial to the dish’s success. Whole wheat kernels, unpolished grains, and cracked wheat each have distinct properties. Cracked wheat is particularly advantageous as it cooks faster than other whole wheat varieties. Utilizing cracked wheat not only accelerates the cooking process but also produces the desirable texture and flavor essential to traditional haleem.

Cracked wheat can be found readily in supermarkets and specialty shops, making it an accessible choice for home cooks. It serves as a perfect base for haleem, achieving its rich flavor and texture without extensive cooking times.

Select the Right Cut of Lamb and Shred It into Long Strands

While various meats can be used in haleem, lamb is the traditional choice due to its robust flavor that enhances the dish. The preferred cuts are neck, shank, and leg, which should be cooked in larger pieces to ensure they shred properly after cooking, maintaining the traditional long strands characteristic of this dish.

Tips for Cooking Haleem at Home

Cook the Wheat Twice

The preparation of cracked wheat in this recipe involves two cooking stages, helping to eliminate any foaming issues that may arise during the boiling process. This method requires careful stirring and temperature regulation to prevent boil-overs.

Save Time with a Food Processor

Advancements in kitchen technology allow for faster food processing. A food processor can quickly puree the cooked wheat, a task that would have once required hours of manual labor.

Finish with a Hand Mixer

For the final mixing phase, using a handheld mixer facilitates achieving the smooth and elastic consistency typically sought after in haleem. After blending for a short duration, the mixture transforms to the desired texture.

Preparation of haleem can be facilitated by making meat and stock up to four days in advance, while the wheat can be pre-cooked and stored. This makes it practical for home cooks to enjoy this traditional dish at their convenience.

Serve with an Assortment of Garnishes

Haleem is seasoned lightly during cooking to allow for personal customization at the table. Various toppings such as sugar, ground cinnamon, sesame seeds, fried onions, and even coconut flakes can be offered to enhance the meal, catering to individual tastes and preferences.

March 2024

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www.seriouseats.com