This Grape Holds the Key to Crisp, Pale Pink Rosé Wines

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While some might argue that a rosé’s appearance should not dictate its quality, this sentiment does not extend to the sun-soaked region of southern France. In Provence, particularly along the stunning Côte d’Azur, the color of rosé wine plays a pivotal role in its appeal. The distinctive pale pinks, referred to by local vintners as blanc taché or “stained white,” consistently earn accolades from oenophiles, writers, and casual wine enthusiasts alike.

However, the true charm of these delicate wines lies not merely in their hue, but in the lesser-known grape that significantly influences both their color and flavor profile: Rolle.

The versatile grape with Mediterranean origins

Primarily cultivated in southern France and Corsica, Rolle reveals its best characteristics when sown along the Mediterranean coastline.

This white grape variety typically matures later than others, thereby preserving its freshness and imparting vibrant notes of citrus, pear, and even hints of grassy or herbal undertones in the glass.

Although some producers utilize Rolle solely for dry white wines—in Italy, it’s recognized as Vermentino—numerous Provençal rosé winemakers such as Château D’Esclans, Chêne Bleu, and Château Rasque consider it an essential ingredient for crafting exquisite rosé. Rolle contributes to the round mouthfeel and subtle richness that characterizes a well-crafted rosé.

Léa Rouyet, an oenologist at Château Gassier, states, “In age-worthy cuvées, we incorporate as much Rolle as permissible in the blend [up to 20%]. This grape allows for prolonged ripening, adding richness and character ideal for barrel aging while preserving elegance. We are increasingly experimenting with co-fermenting Rolle with Syrah, which beautifully complements its qualities. This method enhances both complexity and finesse, yielding a delightful mix of citrus and floral notes alongside the red berry aromas of Syrah. Rolle offers volume, while Syrah delivers structure, resulting in wines with impressive length. Furthermore, this co-fermentation technique helps achieve the delicate pale hues often sought after in rosés, accentuated by hints of lychee.”

Under the radar

Over the years, the admiration for this fascinating grape has grown among winemakers in Provence; however, it remains relatively obscure to many consumers, likely because most wine enthusiasts know it as Vermentino, its designation in Italy. Strict labeling regulations prevent Rolle from being classified as Vermentino when cultivated in France and vice versa.

Vincent Féron, a sommelier and wine historian, notes, “This is a common issue with varietals that are known by different names depending on their geographical locale. For instance, Malbec is referred to as Côt in the Loire Valley, while the Folle Blanche grape from Cognac is called Gros Plan near Nantes. This can create some confusion, but understanding these names helps to connect the dots between the assorted wines made from the same grape.”

Rolle has been cultivated in Provence for many years, perhaps even generations, and while its genetic roots are similar, the terroir plays a crucial role in the expression of both the French and Italian versions.

Sébastien Ferrari, proprietor of Château Malherbe, which specializes in organic and biodynamic wines, explains, “Italian Vermentino is known for its rich, oily texture combined with saline and herbal notes, whereas Provençal Rolle is celebrated for its vibrancy, harmony, and elegance.”

Chefs appreciate Rolle for its culinary adaptability, which is why many top rosés harmonize beautifully with a diverse array of dishes. Even those who typically shy away from rosé wines often find themselves converted when they experience the finesse that Rolle brings to the blend.

If you are in search of a refined, elegant, and expressive rosé, it’s wise to heed the insights from France’s prominent winemakers: consider not just the hue of your rosé but, more importantly, the percentage of Rolle in the bottle.

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