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As Nepal ushers in its new year, marking the year 2082 according to the Nepali calendar, an influx of climbers and trekkers is making its way to Everest, potentially leading to a historic level of congestion on the mountain this season. Reports from Lukla airport highlight a surge in activity, as aspiring summiteers and trekkers head towards the renowned Khumbu Valley.
This season echoes previous years but seems to stand out due to the sheer scale of the expeditions, characterized by larger teams and a noticeable decline in the number of self-supported climbers.
Heading Towards a Record
Initial data indicates that this year could witness a record-breaking influx of climbers to Everest. According to Asian Trekking, the Indian Army has dispatched three teams, one of which consists of around 40 members. Lakpa Sherpa from 8K Expeditions confirmed that he has over 50 climbers ready for the ascent. Similarly, Seven Summit Treks has reported more than 100 confirmed clients.
While exact numbers remain elusive, estimates based on permit data suggest that close to 500 climbers may undertake the challenge this year. Last year’s record stood at 478 foreign climbers holding permits. The summit record was 800 in 2018, accounting for both foreign climbers and local guides, who are not required to procure permits.
Puja ceremony for one of the Seven Summit Treks teams. Photo: Arnold Coster
The Alpymon blog indicates that approximately 500 climbers are currently situated at Base Camp, with many more expected to arrive in the coming weeks. Several climbers are currently en route to Base Camp, engaging in acclimatization climbs on nearby 6,000-meter peaks, including Mera Peak and Ama Dablam, both of which have successful summits reported recently.
It is important to note that most climbers are opting not to fly directly to Base Camp. Instead, they are preparing through acclimatization processes at home or during prior climbs in Nepal. For instance, a group of nearly 40 climbers who recently summited Annapurna are now setting their sights on Everest.
Progress in Rope Fixing
The Icefall Doctors, now utilizing drones to assist in their operations, successfully completed the rope-fixing route to Camp 1, which sits at an elevation of 6,000 meters. Meanwhile, Sherpas are working diligently to prepare Camp 2, located around 6,400 meters in the Western Cwm glacier area, for climbers beginning their acclimatization rotations.
The team from 8K Expeditions is currently stocking Camp 2 with essential gear to facilitate ongoing preparations for their ascent. However, adverse weather conditions on the mountain may delay advances towards the Lhotse Face, as noted by Pemba Sherpa, director of 8K Expeditions.
Innovative Approaches
This year introduces a unique approach from a group associated with Furtenbach Adventures, who plan to fly directly from the UK to Base Camp in May. This expedition, featuring climbers Alastair Carns, Anthony Stazicker, Garth Miller, and Kevin Godlington, intends to employ Xenon gas breathing techniques at home to enhance their EPO levels prior to a rapid summit attempt.
Additionally, Tim Howell and Jon Gupta, both from the UK, recently arrived in Kathmandu and are preparing for their journey to Base Camp. Howell aims to execute a wingsuit flight from the Lhotse ridge, a feat made possible with support from Gupta and local Sherpas as they ascend via the conventional Lhotse route before diverging to the jump point.
Unplugged Expeditions
In a feature of the climbing season, skyrunners Tyler Andrews and Karl Egloff are set to pursue a Fastest Known Time on Everest, but few climbers are planning unsupported climbs this year. Currently, only two high-profile climbers have announced their intention to ascend without supplemental oxygen: Valery Babanov, a two-time Piolet d’Or recipient, and Marcin Miotk, who aims to summit Lhotse, also without supplementary O2.
Babanov, who has previously summited five of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, plans to break records by becoming the oldest climber to reach Everest’s summit without supplemental oxygen at the age of 59. Last summer, he reached K2 using supplemental oxygen.
Valery Babanov, aiming for Everest without supplemental oxygen. Photo: Unknown
Similarly, Marcin Miotk, renowned for being the first Polish climber to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen in 2005, has expressed a desire to experience the mountain from the Nepalese side once more despite initial reservations about the challenges posed by current crowding on the mountain. He is expected to arrive at Base Camp shortly.
A Season of New Records
Athlete Mitch Hutch, having traversed 12,000 kilometers over 210 days from the UK to Nepal, is closing in on Everest Base Camp, where he plans to complete his ascent alongside expert guide Gelje Sherpa of AGA Adventures.
Dawa Finjhok Sherpa, who achieved the remarkable feat of summiting Everest three times within a week last year, aims to accomplish a new challenge by summiting Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu within just 24 hours this season. However, he must navigate the logistical challenges that come with peak crowding and ensure timely transitions between ascents.
In an ongoing testament to his legendary status, Kami Rita Sherpa is set to summit Everest for the 31st time next month. A seasoned guide with Seven Summit Treks, the 55-year-old has consistently summited Everest almost every year since 1994, sometimes even attempting multiple ascents in a single season. His remarkable persistence and experience continue to inspire climbers worldwide.
Kami Rita Sherpa leading a trekking group in the Himalayas. Photo: Kami Rita Sherpa/Facebook
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