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The Enduring Appeal of the Chore Jacket

Take a moment to observe your surroundings, and chances are you’ll spot a chore jacket before long. I noticed a particularly stylish version being worn by a father during a visit to a heritage railway last weekend. As we transition from warm days to cooler evenings, these jackets are prevalent in beer gardens and on allotments alike. Many have found a place in my own wardrobe as well. Originally designed as practical workwear for French factory workers over a century ago, the chore jacket has become a versatile staple in modern fashion. They are now so ubiquitous that you can even find them offered by grocery chains like Sainsbury’s and Asda, where their simple construction lends itself well to mass production.

The chore jacket has been making waves on social media, with posts featuring stylish offerings from workwear-inspired brands such as LF Markey and Folk, as well as from high street retailers like Zara and John Lewis. Even luxury brand The Row has put its spin on the classic garment, although at a staggering price of £1,500, it has attracted fame from celebrities such as Brooklyn Beckham and Hailey Bieber. Harry Styles has been seen sporting a version from SS Daley, a label influenced by British class dynamics in which he has also invested.

The Evolution of the Chore Jacket

But how did the chore jacket transition to its current status in contemporary fashion? Historic homewares brand Labour and Wait started selling jackets from traditional French brand Mont St Michel upon its opening in 2000. However, it’s widely believed that the chore jacket gained prominence in the fashion landscape thanks to New York street style photographer Bill Cunningham, who famously donned one consistently. The garment was embraced by Monty Don, who showcased its functionality while gardening, inspiring discussions about his style and its practicality on platforms like Reddit.

Since then, various designers have experimented with the classic style, leading to mixed reviews. One striking example is a chore jacket developed in collaboration between the Tate and London streetwear brand Lazy Oaf, featuring bold colors and eye-catching embroidery. On the other hand, Adidas’s iteration, a burgundy jacket adorned with logos and utilitarian fastenings, misses the mark for many fashion enthusiasts. Even the brewing company Guinness has jumped in with a chore jacket by Native Denims, attempting to reflect their iconic pint’s color palette but instead resembling a mishap at the laundry.

Understanding the True Chore Jacket

With so many variations available, it’s important to ask: what indeed constitutes a true chore jacket? I believed I owned two vintage pieces—a blue cotton version and a heavy brown canvas coat. However, according to Marie Remy of The French Workwear Company, authenticity matters. Remy, whose father wore the traditional bleu de travail six days a week, emphasizes that a genuine chore jacket must be crafted from blue cotton twill or moleskin and feature three patch pockets—two large and one smaller—along with a collar that sits high and is fastened by multiple buttons.

The jacket’s roomy and boxy silhouette makes it practical for work settings, where loose fabric could pose safety concerns, while also offering versatile styling options. Remy explains that the simplicity of the design has contributed to its longevity, making it something that resonates even with children trying to draw a jacket from memory.

The rise in popularity of the chore jacket post-World War I stemmed from France’s rapid industrial expansion, which necessitated more workers and subsequently led to collective bargaining that ensured rights including free clothing for employees in certain sectors. This phenomenon, as Remy notes, contributed to the abundant availability of these jackets in the vintage market today, with unions negotiating not only wages but the costs associated with maintaining these work garments.

Modern Interpretations and Cultural Implications

As these jackets have been worn regularly, each piece becomes a unique reflection of its owners’ lives, which adds to their contemporary allure. Fergus Henderson, co-founder of the London restaurant St John, admires his own original French chore jacket, referring to it as a “diary of days” that showcases every stain and crease as a marker of history. He appreciates its durability, practical design, and adaptability for everyday wear.

However, the trend of commodifying workwear can also lead to complex feelings. The chore jacket, while steeped in blue-collar significance, is often worn by middle-class individuals who may romanticize its working-class heritage. This dichotomy raises questions about authenticity, especially if someone dons the jacket while casually shopping for artisan goods.

Contemporary designers are mindful of the identity conveyed through these garments. Erica Toogood, co-founder of her namesake brand, cited the chore jacket as a direct inspiration for their mechanic jackets, underscoring a connection to the idea of the anonymous worker. She notes that the allure lies in the stories behind vintage jackets, which are imbued with the histories of their past wearers. Toogood aims to capture that essence in newer designs, considering them as a continuation of a lineage of labor.

Remy highlights that the enduring popularity of vintage chore jackets is also a response to fast fashion. They signify a conscious choice to invest in durable, meaningful clothing rather than transient trends. She believes that selecting a chore jacket is akin to making a personal stand against the disposable fashion culture pervasive today.

There remains ample room for innovation within the chore jacket’s legacy, with contemporary designers encouraged to cater to larger sizes to reflect today’s body diversity. This philosophy aligns with the inclusive vision of Toogood’s brand, which emphasizes unisex sizing.

Ultimately, while the market is saturated with chore jackets of varying styles and qualities, there is potential for renewed appreciation of well-crafted versions that remain close to the original design. Whether choosing an aged piece with character or investing in a new rendition, these jackets retain their charm, serving as durable companions in any wardrobe.

Source
www.theguardian.com