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Culinary Delights of Puerto Rico: A Gastronomic Journey
San Juan, alongside its neighboring areas, has established itself as the culinary heart of Puerto Rico. A shining example is Cocina al Fondo, led by the acclaimed Natalia Vallejo, who recently received the 2023 James Beard Award for Best Chef (South). The establishment is housed in a beautifully restored casita, where guests can savor traditional dishes like arroz con conejo (stewed rabbit rice) in an outdoor setting, accompanied by the melodic sounds of coqui frogs. Vallejo’s cuisine is a blend of sentimentality and innovation, with each dish deeply influenced by the island’s unique culinary landscape.
Innovative dining continues at Orujo, where chef Carlos Portela curates a dynamic prix fixe menu featuring over 20 unique offerings. This intimate venue provides a living room-like atmosphere, and each meal is an expression of Puerto Rican ingredients, showcasing dishes like local calabaza pumpkin adorned with shaved truffles and marlin crudo enhanced by passion fruit and amaranth. Portela, together with the culinary talent found at Verde Mesa and Vianda, emphasizes vegetable mastery—a remarkable achievement in a region often associated with rich, meaty cuisine.
At Mamaya, diners can enjoy a fresh perspective on island culinary traditions. Blackfin tuna tartare served here challenges common assumptions that Puerto Rican food relies solely on fried options. Under the guidance of chef María Mercedes Grubb, Mamplé offers classic Caribbean dishes reimagined with French techniques in an omakase style. Highlights include scallops in sour orange and tarragon sauce, velvety white sweet potato pommes fondantes, and creative morcilla croquembouche featuring annatto gougères filled with blood sausage and local goat cheese mousse.
Beyond the bustling San Juan area, Puerto Rico’s culinary scene is flourishing. Rincón, popular among U.S. expats and surfers, is experiencing a burgeoning craft beer movement. Local breweries are stepping up, with Rincón Beer Company producing bold options such as double IPAs and porters, shifting the focus away from globally recognized brands like Corona. Jeremmie Vélez Rosario, the brewmaster there, demonstrates a commitment to sustainability by integrating locally sourced ingredients into his operations, particularly at his new venue, El Co.lectivo, which promotes a no-waste philosophy in both its cocktails and pizza offerings.
In Mayagüez, chef Luis Enrique’s restaurant Mamaya provides a unique twist on osso buco using pork instead of veal, paired with classic bacalaítos—salted cod fritters typically found at roadside vendors. San Germán, Puerto Rico’s second oldest city, boasts El Cubujón Bar, where patrons can enjoy expertly crafted rye whiskey old-fashioneds alongside choripán, a grilled chorizo sandwich served in soft bread.
In Boquerón, at the southwestern tip of the island, visitors can find local fishers offering the freshest seafood, including small briny oysters caught daily. The balance of tradition and contemporary influences permeates Puerto Rico’s culinary offerings. One cannot overlook the renowned Ruta del Lechón in Guavate, famed for its crispy chicharrón, pigeon peas and rice, and flavorful mofongo. However, one of the most striking representations of the island’s culinary diversity can be found at Bacoa Finca + Fogón, an open-air dining experience nestled at the base of El Yunque rainforest. Here, chefs Xavier Pacheco, Raúl Correa, and René Marichal emphasize wood-fire cooking that encapsulates their Taíno and African heritage, using ingredients harvested from their own farm.
Source
www.cntraveler.com