Photo credit: explorersweb.com
In 1967, Mount McKinley, also known as Denali, became the stage for two significant events in mountaineering history.
In the winter months, a group of climbers set out to achieve the first winter summit, while later in the spring, a powerful storm struck another team, leading to a tragic incident that would leave a lasting mark on North American climbing. This article is the first part of a series that recounts these expeditions, focusing on the groundbreaking winter ascent of McKinley.
(Note: This article will refer to the mountain as McKinley in accordance with Associated Press guidelines.)
Historical Context of McKinley
Standing at 6,190 meters, McKinley is North America’s tallest peak, located in Denali National Park within the Alaska Range. The mountain was first summited on June 7, 1913, by a group led by Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens, with key contributions from climbers Walter Harper and Robert Tatum. Notably, Harper, an Athabascan climber, was the first to stand on the summit and was a proponent of calling the mountain Denali.
This inaugural ascent utilized the Muldrow Glacier route, which approaches from the northeast and navigates through Karstens Ridge and the later-named Harper Glacier.
Development of the West Buttress Route
The West Buttress route, which is now the most frequented path to McKinley’s summit, was first ascended on June 17, 1951, by an expedition led by Bradford Washburn. His exploration of the area in the 1940s established this route as a viable alternative to the more challenging Muldrow Glacier route. Though primarily a snow and ice ascent, climbers still faced hazards such as crevasses and unpredictable weather.
By the close of 1966, McKinley had yet to be conquered in the winter season.
The 1967 Winter Expedition
Concepts for a winter ascent of McKinley were sparked in 1965 by climbers Art Davidson and Shiro Nishimae from the Osaka Alpine Club, leading to the Winter 1967 Mount McKinley Expedition featuring eight climbers. This group included American climbers Gregg Blomberg (the leader), Art Davidson, Dave Johnston, John Edwards, and George Wichman, alongside Japanese climber Shiro Nishimae, Swiss climber Ray Genet, and French climber Jacques Batkin.
At the time, many believed a winter ascent was beyond reach, but the spirit of these climbers thrived on the challenges of cold, darkness, storms, and unpredictable weather. Pilot Don Sheldon dropped the team off at the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on January 29, 1967.
Beginning the Ascent
The team intended to tackle the West Buttress route, and Blomberg noted that while technical challenges were minimal, weather conditions could impede their progress. They began the journey unroped on the spacious Kahiltna Glacier, opting to use ropes only when necessary. The camaraderie among the climbers was palpable, as Blomberg described the joy and laughter shared among the group during their initial nights.
Encountering Obstacles
As they made their way to their first campsite, an unexpected incident occurred when Davidson fell into a crevasse but escaped unscathed. On January 31, the expedition faced a devastating loss; Batkin fell into the same crevasse, tragically resulting in his death despite the team’s rescue attempts.
“That evening, there were seven of us in the two tents, yet how very alone each of us felt,” Blomberg reflected, symbolizing the team’s emotional turmoil. They contemplated abandoning their mission but ultimately chose to honor Batkin’s spirit and continue.
Continuing the Journey
The team’s journey took a tense turn when another near-miss occurred with Edwards falling into a crevasse—thankfully, he was secured by his climbing partner’s rope. After several days of challenging weather, they experienced a spell of clear conditions, allowing them to establish Camp 3 below the Kahiltna Pass, an important waypoint on their route.
After a productive week, they reached Camp 5 at about 4,300 meters, where they constructed igloos that offered a measure of comfort in the cold.
Reaching Denali Pass
On February 26, the climbers advanced from Camp 5 to Denali Pass at around 5,547 meters. The weather turned hostile again, obscuring the summit. Despite deliberating about their options, they decided to descend from the pass only to see the mountain clear shortly after their return to high camp.
The following day, Davidson, Genet, and Johnston made their final ascent, with the trio summiting on February 28, at approximately 7 PM.
“We have looked forward to the view from the summit, but there was only darkness in every direction,” Davidson remarked, capturing the stark reality of their achievement as they paid tribute to Batkin by burying his hat in the snow.
Battling the Storm
The team’s triumph quickly turned into a battle for survival as a fierce storm rolled in. Davidson, Genet, and Johnston took refuge in a snow cave, facing life-threatening conditions marked by severe cold and relentless winds. The situation worsened as their supplies dwindled.
Descent and Rescue
Meanwhile, Blomberg and Edwards made the decision to descend from their high camp with the hope of gaining rescue by helicopter. Eventually, they reached Camp 5 on March 5 and made contact for a rescue operation. The storm finally subsided on March 7, allowing an army plane to spot the three trapped climbers descending Denali Pass. The climbers were eventually airlifted to safety.
Aftermath and Legacy
The expedition had a profound impact on mountaineering, with Genet later becoming a prominent figure in organizing commercial ascents on McKinley. Unfortunately, he died on Everest in 1979 during a descent. In a poignant turn of events, Genet’s son Taras became the youngest climber to summit McKinley on June 21, 1991, followed by Galen Johnston, who achieved the same feat at age 11 in 2001.
Art Davidson documented this remarkable expedition in his book Minus 148 – The First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley, which remains a noteworthy read for those interested in climbing and exploration.
This concludes Part I of our series. Part II will be published tomorrow.
Source
explorersweb.com