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New Expeditions Target Unclimbed Peaks in Nepal
The recent issuance of climbing permits by Nepal’s Department of Tourism showcases two lower but intriguing peaks: 6,180m Swelokhan and 6,372m Pokhar Khang. These mountains are drawing the attention of several climbing teams looking to make their mark on less explored elevations.
Leading a team to tackle Swelokhan is France’s Marine Margaux Minguet, who aims for the mountain’s first ascent. Located in the Manaslu Himal along the Tibetan border, Swelokhan opened for mountaineering only in 2003 and has yet to witness a successful climb.
Ethic Himalaya, serving as the logistics outfitter for this endeavor, has yet to release additional details about Minguet’s ongoing expedition. However, the climbing history of Swelokhan is brief and notable, with only two previous attempts recorded in 2005 and 2007.
History of Swelokhan Attempts
As documented by The Himalayan Database and the American Alpine Journal, the first recorded attempt to conquer Swelokhan was made in the spring of 2005 by a three-man expedition led by Japanese climber Sadmasu Kitagawa. This team, comprised of Kitagawa, Hiroh Sogo from Japan, and Chhiring Dorchi Sherpa from Nepal, made efforts on both the south face and the southwest face-northwest ridge, though both attempts fell short.
During their attempt on the south face, the team reached an altitude of 5,200m, where they encountered an impassable rock barrier that obstructed their route. On their second attempt via the northwest ridge, they managed to climb up to 5,800m but were forced to retreat due to challenging conditions marked by sharp, loose rocks and fresh snow that exceeded their technical capabilities.
In the autumn of 2007, a follow-up effort was made by American climber Peter Ackroyd, leading an equally small team of climbers, including Jim Frush and Sam McClary. This group aimed for the southeast face, successfully reaching 5,120m on October 14 before abandoning their ascent due to poor snow conditions. They noted that they would have merely required an additional camp to reach the summit.
Pokhar Khang Expedition Update
A separate expedition is underway targeting the 6,372m Pokhar Khang, led by German climber Konstantin Johannes August, joined by Moritz Quincke, Flora Voglic, and Fabienne Sophia Volle. Situated in the Damodar Himalaya between upper Mustang and Annapurna, Pokhar Khang was first made accessible for climbing in 2002. The first successful ascent was achieved by a UK team led by Stephen Town later that autumn, with climbers Richard Martin Scott, Dave Wynne-Jones, and Pasang Kaji Sherpa reaching the summit on November 17 via the south face-east ridge.
A Japanese team under Koichi Kato attempted to tackle Pokhar Khang earlier that climbing season but only managed to reach a foresummit at 6,346m on October 31. Since these initial attempts, two more successful ascents of Pokhar Khang have occurred in 2009 and 2012, bringing the total number of climbers who have reached its summit to 12.
As expeditions to both Swelokhan and Pokhar Khang have already commenced, further reports will be provided as more information becomes available. Earlier this spring, a Nepalese team attempted the unclimbed 6,186m Khayang, but their effort was thwarted by adverse weather and treacherous conditions.
Nepal is home to 96 unclimbed peaks over 6,000m, including 56 mountains under 6,500m and 40 within the range of 6,501m to 6,999m, presenting ample opportunities for future expeditions.
Source
explorersweb.com